|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||mschlocker on Oct 20, 2011|
|Comments on Unfinished Business||Add Comment|
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From: San Diego, Ca
Oct 6, 2014
I stupidly didn't check the knot in the end of the rope after rapping DD Arete and it got stuck at the chains. Luckily, with more than half of a 60m rope left, I was able to safely lead Little Chicken and JUST make it to the rap station for DD and retrieve the rope.
Not sure exactly how to start this climb. The description is a bit confusing. "Start on ledge as for Stellar Crack" . . . well, Stellar starts on the far right corner of the ledge, which didn't really seem to make sense for this climb. Not sure about a nut protecting the first move, either. Left side of the ledge--below the bolt line--does have some pro options, but not the greatest. A bunch of loose, hollow flakes. Easy climbing, tho. I clipped the first bolt on Chicken Little (11.a line between Stellar and LC) then traversed left ten feet or so. Not a great fall, but easy climbing. Put in an okay cam until I was able to clip the first actual bolt on the LC line.
This was a pretty interesting and unique climb. 5.9 rating is good, but pushed by the fact that there are sections with a lot of lichen and moss on the rock. It makes you think.
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 23, 2016
|Yes, this route is a bit more wild than the rest. Pitch 2 is quite exciting right off the deck.|