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Stellar Walls
Routes Sorted
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Double Dragon Arete S 
Gecko Staircase T,S 
Stellar Crack T 
Unfinished Business S 

Unfinished Business 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Schlocker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: mschlocker on Oct 20, 2011

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Climber is just just past a crux on P2 of Unfinish...

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  • Description 

    A 2 pitch adventure up the Stellar Walls. Pitch 2 is one of the more serious pitches in the area in terms of difficulty and bolt spacing.

    P1 5.9 (Little Chicken, 80'): Start from the ledge as for Stellar Crack and traverse left and up, following the bolts. First move is protected by a medium nut. Follows a series of overlaps and right facing dihedrals. Anchor is way out to the right making the exit exciting for the second.

    P2 5.10d (Unfinished Business, 120'): Head up broken rock to a ledge from where it is hard to continue due to undercut feet and small hands. Up and a step left from here. The route gets progressively easier until a headwall is reached. The headwall is entertaining with a slight overhang but good holds.


    Left side of Stellar Crack ledge. Can rap from P1 but must walk off climbers' left from P2 due to length of pitch. There is also a rap station ~80' to climbers' right at top but is hard to find.


    Medium nut for start, to protect leftward traverse. Easy but dangerous without the nut.

    It may be wise to place a cam before the headwall is reached as it is run out but easy to the headwall bolt. I just ran it out so I can't say what size would fit but medium is a good guess from looking around. It is good to place a longer quickdraw on the first headwall bolt to avoid drag.

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