Unfinished Business  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Mark Schlocker New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  mschlocker on Oct 20, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Climber is just just past a crux on P2 of Unfinish...

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>> Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates! ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A 2 pitch adventure up the Stellar Walls. Pitch 2 is one of the more serious pitches in the area in terms of difficulty and bolt spacing.

P1 5.9 (Little Chicken, 80'): Start from the ledge as for Stellar Crack and traverse left and up, following the bolts. First move is protected by a medium nut. Follows a series of overlaps and right facing dihedrals. Anchor is way out to the right making the exit exciting for the second.

P2 5.10d (Unfinished Business, 120'): Head up broken rock to a ledge from where it is hard to continue due to undercut feet and small hands. Up and a step left from here. The route gets progressively easier until a headwall is reached. The headwall is entertaining with a slight overhang but good holds.

Location 

Left side of Stellar Crack ledge. Can rap from P1 but must walk off climbers' left from P2 due to length of pitch. There is also a rap station ~80' to climbers' right at top but is hard to find.

Protection 

Medium nut for start, to protect leftward traverse. Easy but dangerous without the nut.

It may be wise to place a cam before the headwall is reached as it is run out but easy to the headwall bolt. I just ran it out so I can't say what size would fit but medium is a good guess from looking around. It is good to place a longer quickdraw on the first headwall bolt to avoid drag.