5.11b A1 PG13
|1,604 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 945 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.11b A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Andrew M., James M., Nathan B.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||andjoely on Jul 26, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Topo of route.
This route is a pretty good route that follows weaknesses up the wall right of defective sonar that was put up in hopes of a free route but that may or may not be the case.
P1: climb the fathom corner to the ledge 40' up. Step up and left on steep face to a roof. pull the 5.9 roof and continue up the face past a black tricam and 3 bolts to anchor (5.11a)
P2: Climb up past 2 bolts then left then up then left to get gear then up and right to another bolt continue up to belay at two #3 camalots (5.11b)
P3: Traverse the horizontal out right till it gets steep and pumpy near the end. belay at a tiny stance. (5.11a to old anchor. 5.11c? to new one?)
P4: follow the line of 9 bolts and 4 bathooks out right past some dikes and large crystals mixed free and aid to big ledge (5.9 A1 or 5.13???????)
P5: Climb ramp up and right then step left onto the steep face following bolts past a short crimpy crux section then up an awesome shallow steep water groove (5.11a A0 or 5.12d?)
P6: Climb the incredible steep, deep, and wide to anchors. Look for large hybrid aliens before the first bolt and a key red tricam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (5.10aR)
P7: Continue up the left hand groove past 2 bolts to ledge, then continue up the mossy groove to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9)
Descent: from top of P4 rap 200 ft. to slab of fathom. Then downclimb or double rope rap off single spinner 3/8" wedge bolt that won't tighten down :(
I've been working on this from January to June 2010. P1, P2, P6, P7 have been freed. P3 has been redpointed to the previous anchor location 8' left of the current one. P5 will go free at 12d-ish. I have done all the moves up to the last 2 bolts on P4 free but this last 15' section is pretty blank. P4 was originally aided with 4 bathook holes and one natural hook. I tried using more natural hooks but stopped when I kept breaking free climbing holds. for people who repeat the route on aid the only natural hook move is on large hold after the first bolt after the big dike on P4. P5 was done with some aid but no bathooks and mostly free (mandatory 5.11a free climbing)
P1 and P2 are a little heads up. P6 has seriously runout 5.8 or 5.9 climbing.
Same start as fathom
triples to .75 camalot for P3 including hybrids. double 1 camalot, single 2 camalot, double #3 camalot (only for P2 belay) nuts, tricams; for aid: cliffhanger hook, talon hook, and 1 or 2 aiders.
Andrew rappelling down after we finished the upper...
|By s f|
Jul 26, 2010
Proud route A... You will free it one day.
|By Br'er Rabbit|
From: The Deeper South
Jul 28, 2010
| || |Shannon and Andrew on new route traverse.
Submitted By: Br'er Rabbit on Jul 28, 2010
Watching you guys work that traverse was a great mid-day diversion last April...good luck on freeing this thing.