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YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Howard, Okel '81
Page Views: 821
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 18, 2007
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Underfling 1980's


The Crux of this route is either the rope drag or the wet nastiness that waits for you towards the end of the route.
This route starts underneath the trash compator roof at the obvious moderate conrner then it travels up to fixed sling and out roof on undercling with tricky but solid placements. make the transfer into the upper corner and stem/grovel your way up the conrer to the tree anchors/topout above.


Northeast corner of trash compactor roof area.


Many leaders use two ropes for this climb due to the rope drag
Standard rack, try not to place too much gear deep in the underbelly of the giant roof

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By Rafiki
Jun 10, 2007

Amazing route..highly recommended! Seemed kinda soft, would've been 5.8ish in New York.

By Steve C
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 27, 2007

Great route. I would definitely recommend two ropes; I led it on a single cord and the rope drag at the end of the roof walked my blue metolious cam 4 inches or so into a flare and it opened up completely. Once you pull the roof though the climbing eases off substantially.

By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The drag is not that bad if you use long runners in the traverse and don't clip the manky slings in the corner. There's a nice pine tree about 10 feet to the right of the top of the climb that makes a nice place to build an anchor to set a toprope or rap off.