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Fire Wall
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Underdog 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 1,826
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Oct 11, 2008

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Stu on the 5.11R slab

Description 

One of the best pitches I've climbed anywhere. It has an amazing variety of movement, unbeatable position, and plenty of spice. Follow the splitter looking crack to a funky move and a stance. Blast up the obtuse arete feature past some bolts to another stance below the slab. Plug some bogus gear and commit to the 5.11R slab moves, gaining a curiously placed bolt after the buisness. Clip a 2-pin anchor as pro and continue past it to a very steep and cryptic roof section (crux). Finally, fire up the overhung headwall past a bolt and some gear to the anchor. Classic.

Location 

Fire Wall

Protection 

gear, bolts, and a few fixed pins. no large gear needed up high. bring a stopper to cinch a hangerless bolt about 1/3 of the way up. RPs are also useful. There is an anchor but it needs new nylon. Bring something to back it up (small cam).


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By ChanVan
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Sweet picture dude! Who done took it?
By Ben Sachs
Oct 14, 2008

Shannon Millsaps, from the ledge above Midlife Crisis
By Christopher Barlow
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Underdog now has a solid anchor of two pins and a fixed nut, with all steel cable/biners for lowering. The second pin in the roof is also back in place, making the crux decently well protected. Give it a go!
By porter jarrard
Mar 17, 2009

Underdog bolt after crux on slab was placed by me on lead hanging on a hook on the good edge below it. Fun hauling up all that bolting gear, not wanting to whip on those marginal nuts. Underdog links Go Dog Go to the finish of Wild Life for a direct line. -porter
By jgallagher
Feb 9, 2012

Just for the record that second pin in the roof is no longer there. There is only one. That being said this is the best pitch at moores imo.