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Stu on the 5.11R slab
One of the best pitches I've climbed anywhere. It has an amazing variety of movement, unbeatable position, and plenty of spice. Follow the splitter looking crack to a funky move and a stance. Blast up the obtuse arete feature past some bolts to another stance below the slab. Plug some bogus gear and commit to the 5.11R slab moves, gaining a curiously placed bolt after the buisness. Clip a 2-pin anchor as pro and continue past it to a very steep and cryptic roof section (crux). Finally, fire up the overhung headwall past a bolt and some gear to the anchor. Classic.
gear, bolts, and a few fixed pins. no large gear needed up high. bring a stopper to cinch a hangerless bolt about 1/3 of the way up. RPs are also useful. There is an anchor but it needs new nylon. Bring something to back it up (small cam).
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c R
Sweet picture dude! Who done took it?
|By Ben Sachs|
Oct 14, 2008
Shannon Millsaps, from the ledge above Midlife Crisis
|By Christopher Barlow|
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.12c R
Underdog now has a solid anchor of two pins and a fixed nut, with all steel cable/biners for lowering. The second pin in the roof is also back in place, making the crux decently well protected. Give it a go!
|By porter jarrard|
Mar 17, 2009
Underdog bolt after crux on slab was placed by me on lead hanging on a hook on the good edge below it. Fun hauling up all that bolting gear, not wanting to whip on those marginal nuts. Underdog links Go Dog Go to the finish of Wild Life for a direct line. -porter
Feb 9, 2012
Just for the record that second pin in the roof is no longer there. There is only one. That being said this is the best pitch at moores imo.