Undercling Right 5.8
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The zig-zag crack just right of the obvious wide crack, on the north little Owl. Undercling and jam from the ground at 5.9, or step in higher up off of a ramp at a 5.8 thin crack. A good little route.
[Eds. Interestingly, there are 3 ways to do this route. S. Kimball's guide describes a 5.8 version which starts on Knee Catcher. R. Rossiter's guide describes this as Flake, 5.8+. He also describes starting with a thin seam (challenging) on the right. B. Gillett's guide describes starting up the awkward zig-zag crack as 5.9+.]
Protection Bring a light standard rack to a #2 Friend.
| Comments on Undercling Right |
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By Mike Pharris
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 15, 2009
| As of 9/13/09 the right hand summit - at the top of the zig zag crack route - only has one chain/bolt. There's one empty hole and one hole that's been cemented over. The rock up there has a bit of a hollow ring to it as well. We couldn't find any real way to back up the chains. Climber beware.
There are two chains on the left hand side - at the top of Knee Catcher. |
By Brandon Glanton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 4, 2010
| Beautiful climb if taking the Zig Zag route, highly recommended. Be sure to use long draws for the Zig Zag. Anchors still not repaired as of June 3, 2010. |
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2012
| If you do the full three-segment zigzag on this route, the lowest 10m are solid 5.9/9+. Poor feet and the angle of the cracks makes for insecure holds. The angles also make passive protection difficult. |
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