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The zig-zag crack just right of the obvious wide crack, on the north little Owl. Undercling and jam from the ground at 5.9, or step in higher up off of a ramp at a 5.8 thin crack. A good little route.
[Eds. Interestingly, there are 3 ways to do this route. S. Kimball's guide describes a 5.8 version which starts on Knee Catcher. R. Rossiter's guide describes this as Flake, 5.8+. He also describes starting with a thin seam (challenging) on the right. B. Gillett's guide describes starting up the awkward zig-zag crack as 5.9+.]
Bring a light standard rack to a #2 Friend.
|Comments on Undercling Right
|By Mike Pharris|
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 15, 2009
As of 9/13/09 the right hand summit - at the top of the zig zag crack route - only has one chain/bolt. There's one empty hole and one hole that's been cemented over. The rock up there has a bit of a hollow ring to it as well. We couldn't find any real way to back up the chains. Climber beware.
There are two chains on the left hand side - at the top of Knee Catcher.
|By Brandon Glanton|
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 4, 2010
Beautiful climb if taking the Zig Zag route, highly recommended. Be sure to use long draws for the Zig Zag. Anchors still not repaired as of June 3, 2010.
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2012
If you do the full three-segment zigzag on this route, the lowest 10m are solid 5.9/9+. Poor feet and the angle of the cracks makes for insecure holds. The angles also make passive protection difficult.