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Immediately right of Anartichoke is a short crack leading to a blunt arete. Under the Wire has fun climbing on the arete but it is reachy and bit run out getting to the last clip. The stone is fine and the climbing interesting. Logic and the holds seem to dictate moving to the left after the last clip.
Half a dozen draws and a rope.
Pulling through the crux, "Under The Wire".
|By Doug Redosh|
Jul 4, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The initial crack is 5.8. The crux is stepping off the ledge to start the upper face/arete. There is a good sidepull that is not obvious, though, i.e. easier than it looks. Can easily combinie the lower section with the upper section of Anartichoke for a good 5.9.
May 12, 2007
The holds stepping off the ledge are not obvious and make this route feel harder than a 10a...at least when leading it the first time.