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Under The Wire 
Whole Lot of Drunk 

Under The Wire 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, 2/93? Alan Nelson, 1998?
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 21, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Under the Wire and Generica
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Immediately right of Anartichoke is a short crack leading to a blunt arete. Under the Wire has fun climbing on the arete but it is reachy and bit run out getting to the last clip. The stone is fine and the climbing interesting. Logic and the holds seem to dictate moving to the left after the last clip.


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



Photos of Under The Wire Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through the crux, "Under The Wire".
Pulling through the crux, "Under The Wire".
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By Doug Redosh
Jul 4, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The initial crack is 5.8. The crux is stepping off the ledge to start the upper face/arete. There is a good sidepull that is not obvious, though, i.e. easier than it looks. Can easily combinie the lower section with the upper section of Anartichoke for a good 5.9.

By Skat
May 12, 2007

The holds stepping off the ledge are not obvious and make this route feel harder than a 10a...at least when leading it the first time.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 15, 2008

FA - TA (& others?) Feb. 1993