Under The Weather is an under-appreciated, underground classic. Located just right of center on the Weathertop, Under The Weather climbs the impressive dihedral to roof crack visible from the highway. Start in a chossy wider crack that turns into a steep, finger-to-hands crack. The steep, left-facing dihedral curves left to form a large roof. Traverse left under the roof with good protection. Pull the roof on positive holds above a large pocket and continue on unprotected, easier face climbing to a two bolt anchor. Squeezing the Lemmon suggests a #2 Camalot to protect the roof move. The #2 does not actually fit that well although another piece (perhaps a hex?) may be more suitable.
The climb was originally rated 11d although it has gotten much easier as it has cleaned up considerably (11a or even 10d). Dean got the FA during a powerful onsight effort. He cleaned the steep finger crack as he climbed, and pulled the roof without knowing what was above. It was apparently an awesome exhibition of endurance and composure. This climb is one of the best cracks for the grade and will continue to get better as the lower section cleans up. Similar in difficulty and quality to Credibility Gap and It Crack.
Standard rack to 3"
Geir contemplates the last few moves of his onsigh...
|Comments on Under The Weather
Sep 20, 2006
The bottom bit has been spiffed considerably and is now clean from top to bottom.
I agree with Eric this is a "must do" climb for any 5.11 trad climber.
Sep 21, 2006
So Jim, how about submitting the rest of the routes to this site ?
Sep 26, 2006
Here's whats new, that's not in Squeezing II.
Between routes 2 an 3 is a sport route 11c/d-90ft. **
To the immediate right of route 10 is a .10b sport route-130ft.**
Between routes 17 and 18 is a sport route .12b-130ft.** Thin technical and sustained.
Route 13 "Under the Weather" is .11a *** now it's cleaned up.
The only 2 routes I wouldn't climb again are Snow Problem and Miller Time.
I stand by the stars we gave each route.
"Willard Scotts Crack" has bomber gear and 3 crux bits, a must do if your there. One of the best trad lines on Mt. Lemmon. I wish we'd put it up.
"Lair of the Chupacabra" has good gear but you need to look for it between the bolts.
"Shin Fein" is the 2nd best route at the Weather Top. It also has great gear, a few bolts, and a surprise bit at the top. Bring your RP's. The crux is bolt protected.
I'd love to go up there and show you around. Call me.
Sep 27, 2006
Jim, thanks for the info and the invite. We'll do it. You can laugh while I try your routes.
Feb 18, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This route is a blast. It was pretty clean when I climbed it. I placed a #2 in the last pocket before turning the roof. Being pumped and turning the roof in the wrong spot, I fell on it. It turned about 60 degrees and I was caught by half a cam. That was a little disconcerting. If you are not too desperate when you make the placement, a slightly better placement is possible. However I think a good placement is possible with a medium-large hex. Next time I will try that for sure.
Feb 27, 2008
Dean Brault, by sitting on his heal, with his back to the final moves, has actually been able to get a no hands rest at the hole just before you bust out the roof.
dcon, if you like Under the Weather I would suggest Willard Scott's Crack. It's as good or better than Under the Weather.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Rock has some small loose stuff here and there but good pro can be found the whole way, Save a red and a yellow camalot for the moves to the left under the roof. I didn't place the yellow cam after the red cam but I hear you can get it in by the left hand. The finish is three stars.
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
definitely a must do for those climbing at the grade. the climb is bit grainy in places and has an intimidating feel, making it a heady challenge for a solid trad climber.
plenty of solid gear protects the climb save the final moves to the left around the roof. a hex (around #10) or a medium tricam (around #3) may be helpful here, but honestly i doubt the rock around this placement could handle a hard fall.
|By greg k|
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Geir's gear beta was spot on: the white tricam found a happy home in an unlikely spot. I climbed this thinking to myself, "ok, here comes the 11- sequence" over and over. In my opinion it never did come (felt easier than Nancy boy's nightmare's crux); everything I grabbed was a jug. Lots of fun with the underclinging/sidepulling roof moves somewhat of rarity on Lemmon.