Under The Table 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare, [Moe Hershoff], et al, 1999 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Mar 9, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Tootsie Roll and Under the Table
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Description Left of Alan's Seam is a very blank looking face that was created recently when a large section of the wall fell away. This pale white face was bolted up a couple of years ago and has turned into an improbable but very interesting climb. The climbing begins by powering up on the right hand arete for several moves before stepping over into the face. A delicate series of moves gains a horrizontal seam. Stay in balance! The move to make the last clip is done with no hands on the wall. Above the seam, the line can be finished on the right (easier) or on the left. This route poses an interesting mental game with fine, delicate footwork.
Protection Half a dozen draws and a rope. Fixe rings.
Don LaMoureaux, Dave Champion, & John Lohmeier.
Ph...
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Thin (not me, the holds...).
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Nearing the crux finish on "Under the Table".
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| Comments on Under The Table |
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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 11, 2003
| These anchors can be reached with shameless ease when lowering from the 5.8 to the left. The move from the seam is a blast, but it does take a little effort to get there. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 23, 2005
| The no-hands move is easily my favorite at Table. I doubt this is as hard as 11d, which is a little past my range. The anchors can be reached after climbing the route to the left, if necessary. |
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 19, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| Well protected, fun route. The starting moves are stiff if staying out of the crack to the right, thin edge for the right hand and a two finger hold for the left, stick the nail head foot hold with the left foot. Cruise for a few moves then make the no hands move avoiding the temptation to grab the right edge. Then make the last tough move on the thin edges for feet to the good left hand and crank up. BTW, I don't believe back stepping onto the dihedral behind you is keeping the 11 grade. |
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
May 10, 2010
| This route sucks. The route description in the current guidebook says the route follows the bolts throughout. NO WAY can you stay on the face throughout and have it be 11b. I've done 13a routes that were easier. If you follow the description listed here (migrate back and forth between the right side and the face), you get a series of moves that are doable at the grade, but IMO, this does not make a route. It's completely contrived, since the face basically peters out several times, forcing you to go back to the right side. The right side, meanwhile, is consistently climbable - there's nothing to push you back to the face except that that's where the bolts are. |
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jun 21, 2010
| Glad I read the last two comments. I had seen the same thing in the guidebook about the right hand arete, and figured it was 'off route'. Got totally shut down on the opening moves - it's way harder than 11b if you don't use that arete at the start. |
By sstrauss
From: Denver
Nov 8, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c
| I don't know if I'd bomb it, but I definitely agree with Gabe's comments. Staying strictly on the face takes it up a notch, without a doubt. Once you reach the blank-ness, it's extremely hard to tell what's on and what's off. Resist the urge to stem off the pillar to climber's left and see what happens. Contrived? Yes, but it'll make you use your imagination. |
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