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Sundance Buttress
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Under the Big Top 
Under The Sundress T 
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Under The Sundress 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA: Jim Belcer, Jason Seaver, 7/31/2004, FFA: Jason Seaver, John Tormalehto, 8/14/2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 591
Submitted By: jason seaver on Aug 16, 2010

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J. Seaver following pitch 2. Shorts aren't recomme...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner of Precipitationís first pitch for 30-40í to where the crack fades out. Place gear high and bust out right toward a hanging, left-facing flake/corner. Climb up into the left-facing flake and follow it through a bulge to a ledge belay with a black-coated cable anchor around a flake. 5.10-.

Pitch 2: Climb up and right to gain the gaping left-facing, left-leaning wide crack which parallels Precipitationís 2nd pitch. Climb this feature to where it takes a hard left under a roof/overlap and belay there, at a decent stance. 5.10-.

Pitch 3: Just a short little pitch. Undercling left out the crack under the big roof. Belay when you regain Precipitation, at a stacked-block stance, just down and left of a little roof crack. 5.11.

Pitch 4: This is Precipitationís 3rd pitch. Climb out the little roof crack up and right of the belay. Once established on the slab above, climb the left-hand crack through perfect stone to a two bolt belay. 5.10-.

Rappel twice with 2 ropes.

Some linkage of the pitches is possible, but the belays I described work well for eliminating rope-drag and maintaining visual contact.


Location 

This route starts on the first pitch of Precipitatiion, which is 30í left of the start to Idiot Wind and 30í right of the giant flake resting against the base of the cliff right of Turnkorner.


Protection 

Standard single rack up to a #6 Camalot will suffice. Doubles in #3 Camalot-size would be more comfy. There are currently two fixed wires at the 2nd belay, and a modern 2-bolt anchor atop the 4th pitch.



Photos of Under The Sundress Slideshow Add Photo
John T. following pitch 2.
John T. following pitch 2.
J. Seaver following pitch 2. <br /> <br />Photo by John Tormalehto.
J. Seaver following pitch 2.

Photo by John Tormal...
John T. following pitch 3.
John T. following pitch 3.
J. Seaver starting the crux pitch 3. <br /> <br />Photo by John Tormalehto.
J. Seaver starting the crux pitch 3.

Photo by Joh...
Under The Sundress.
BETA PHOTO: Under The Sundress.
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