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Sugarloaf, West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Face 
Espresso 
Fat Merchant Crack 
Happy Face 
Hyperspace 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The 
Only the Young Die Brave 
Pony Express 
TM's Deviation 
Twist and Shout 
Under the Spreading Atrophy 
West Chimney 

Under the Spreading Atrophy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Will Chen Mark Robinson '89
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: caughtinside on Feb 19, 2008
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Description 

This is a thin granite face route that starts off a block. First move is an in your face mantle and then it's thin to win from there. Wear your edging shoes and move up past 5 bolts before traversing right when it blanks out and finish via Pony Express.

This climb has gotten a bolt upgrade sometime in 2007, big thanks to whoever did it (John Robinson?) for removing the old manky leepers and putting in quality hardwear without damaging the stone.

Because it finishes on the same bolt anchor atop Pony Express, this is an excellent toprope after leading that climb.

It's good climbing, and would get more stars if it was completely independent...


Location 

Face just left of Pony Express, just left of the Podium.


Protection 

5 bolts + chain anchors, bring some cams for the upper 30' of Pony Express.



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