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Sugarloaf, West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T,S 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

Under the Spreading Atrophy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Will Chen Mark Robinson '89
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: caughtinside on Feb 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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This is a thin granite face route that starts off a block. First move is an in your face mantle and then it's thin to win from there. Wear your edging shoes and move up past 5 bolts before traversing right when it blanks out and finish via Pony Express.

This climb has gotten a bolt upgrade sometime in 2007, big thanks to whoever did it (John Robinson?) for removing the old manky leepers and putting in quality hardwear without damaging the stone.

Because it finishes on the same bolt anchor atop Pony Express, this is an excellent toprope after leading that climb.

It's good climbing, and would get more stars if it was completely independent...


Face just left of Pony Express, just left of the Podium.


5 bolts + chain anchors, bring some cams for the upper 30' of Pony Express.

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