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 ADVANCED
The Pier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost but not Quite S 
Basement S 
Cling Free S 
Destiny S 
Drug Sniffing Pot-Bellied Pig S 
False Alarm S 
Geometric Progression S 
How Do You Like them Pineapples? S 
Long Walk Off Of a Short Pier S 
Pier Pressure S 
Poco Owes Me a Concert S 
Seventh Hour S 
Thirsty Quail S 
Under the Boardwalk S 

Under the Boardwalk 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: any
Page Views: 5,355
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Route photo with Bro Jason climbing in the rain; s...

Description 

Jug-o-rama. This climb is big moves mostly to big holds with a few smaller ones up top just as you are pumped and ready to finish the climb. Intersting and big movements. Easier than the other 5.11's nearby.

Location 

This route is about 1/2 way down the Pier Gully and if you walk down and just think jugs jugs jugs as you progress down, inspecting each route, this one will be the one you will intuatively pick.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Under the Boardwalk Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan on Under the Boardwalk 11a .. so good
Ryan on Under the Boardwalk 11a .. so good
Sheri making it look so easy as usual; don't miss this excellent route!
Sheri making it look so easy as usual; don't miss ...
Just below the last clip.
Just below the last clip.
Sheri right at the last bolt and right at the last tough crux!  Slopers rule!
Sheri right at the last bolt and right at the last...
Brian nearing the second to last clip and surprise surprise # 2 awaits!
Brian nearing the second to last clip and surprise...
Brian TR'ing and just past the first bolt and crux #1 on this route!
Brian TR'ing and just past the first bolt and crux...
Chris starting up past the first bolt.
Chris starting up past the first bolt.
Elaine sending Under the Boardwalk.
Elaine sending Under the Boardwalk.
Todd eyeing up Under the Boardwalk
Todd eyeing up Under the Boardwalk

Comments on Under the Boardwalk Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2014
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Beware that the guidebook for this area notes this climb at 5.10b. If you just came from the Black Corridor this jug haul will have some serious surprise compared to the 5.10b/c's over there. This route IMHO is NOT to be missed as everything is there; obvious jugs but so many really fun surprises await!
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Sep 24, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

yeah uh this rating is diffrent for red rocks considering how most of red rocks can be over rated i believe that this climb is under rated a technical crux at the start and a slopey hard finish, this climb is a lot harder than it looks i think only the middle section could be a 5-10b the rest is a lot harder than it looks and most of the holds are in bad need of cleaning, slopers so smooth with black shoe and rubeed over chalk residue dosent make it much better,but worth checking out its in the shade most of the day. rex
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 29, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I am glad someone else thought this was hard for 5.10b. It was a stiff warmup. I guess it should not be a surprise about the ratings on this cliff, since the majority of the lines are 5.12's.

A beautiful line no matter what the rating might be...
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 17, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

up until the brock book was released, this route was rated at .11b (for a good laugh- note that Jared McMillan (co-author of Brock's book) rated this route .11b in his sport climbing guide....)

i dont think its quite .11b- i'd say .10d/.11a. If you're shorter, the start will add some difficulties.

really fun, though!
By David Stowe
Mar 17, 2007

This was a fun route that I though was 5.9/10/a until the crux finish sequence which was much harder probably 10.d. I may have also felt hard since we had done Epi the day before. I don't think that it was 5.11, it just takes you by supprise the first time you do it. The second time when I knew what was coming it was not nearly as hard. A fun route either way. For the feeling of a solid 5.11 move a few climbs to the left and do Basement, a really interesting and solid 5.11.
By karl vochatzer
From: Austin, TX
May 10, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Not wanting to endanger the belayer on the slippery slop of Long Walk Off a Short Pier (5.9-), I chose to do the next easiest climb at The Pier - according to the guidebook a 5.10b - very well within my abilities. With a fun and somewhat exposed start, a potentially bad landing if you don't hit the first bolt, it was clear from the beginning that this wasn't going to be a 5.10b. The climb is sustained through a series of huecos and leans back most all of the way. Many of the holds are positive although as Rex noted earlier they tended to be gummed with rubber and chalk, especially the sloper-holds. The finale at the end of the pumpfest is a sticky set of sport clips hanging on the end of the chains. Based on my experience of topping out at 5.11a/b's on lead and in comparison to numerous 5.10's throughout RR, I confidently rate this a 5.11a, and well worth the climb.
By Sol Cantwell
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Give yourself 11a if you care. Super fun moves with a great rest in the middle (probably what lowers the grade). The crux is getting off the deck and the very last move to the anchors.
By dave blackburn
From: las vegas
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Big hold broke at the last crux (not me). I thought it felt different!!
By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Mar 18, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The crux is right after the last bolt as you move past some slopers.