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Lower Grotto Wall
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Pea Brain 
Scene of the Crime 
Space Sluts in the Slammer 
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Stand By Your Van 
Stranger Than Fiction 
Tap Dancer 
Tarzan 
Twin Cracks 
Under Pressure 
Under Pressure - Extension 
Unknown 13b? 
Victims of Fashion 
Wire and Fire 
YQ 
Unsorted Routes:

Under Pressure - Extension 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Kalous
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Jun 4, 2013
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Description 

This extension to Under Pressure adds some exposed climbing high off the ground and a one-move wonder dyno crux to reach the top of Lower Grotto Wall. While you can split this climb up into 2 separate pitches, I suggest running the pitches together into one mega pitch as the first anchor isn't the most comfortable to hang out and belay from and there is a great rest stance right before the 12b crux. If linking the pitches together, extend the last bolt and anchor of the first pitch with long runners to reduce rope drag.

From the p1 anchor, make a rightward traverse with powerful undercling moves past the first bolt and a great rest. Reach high to clip the 2nd bolt and immediately into the crux, which is followed by a hand jam and fat undercling rest. Easier climbing gets you to the anchor at the top of the wall; the terrain between the last bolt and the anchor is protectable with a 1" cam.

LOWERING: Because of the traversing nature of the climb, it's easiest to bring up your second and then walk off. With a 60 meter rope, it's also possible to lower off to the p1 anchor (tram in while cleaning), re-thread the rope through the anchor and lower off again. You will not reach the ground by lowering from the top anchor with a 60 or 70 meter rope!


Location 

This is an extension pitch to Under Pressure, which starts just right of Twin Cracks.


Protection 

4 bolts, optional 1" cam; chain anchor.



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