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Under A Blood Red Wall 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, 1986
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Small holds. Photo: Ben I.

Description 

Scramble up and climb some nice moderate 5.11 moves on rock that feels more like sandstone than limestone. It has good moves with some rather open-hand stuff instead of pockets. The seam that curves towards Lats picks up some nice crisp corners to keep the difficulty lower than advertised. This felt very soft for 5.11d and would drop a grade or two if it was at Devil's Head or Lumpy.

Protection 

9 bolts.

Location 

This is on the blood red wall that hosts "Lats Don't Have Feelings" and just right is a curving line that starts off a block.


Photos of Under A Blood Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the crux.   Photo: Ben I.
Starting the crux. Photo: Ben I.
Cactus Cliff - Left (2).  Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2). Errata: Route 31 is Tits...

Comments on Under A Blood Red Wall Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 16, 2001

Bob,

I don't recall a separate anchor, did we just miss it gunning for the one on Lats? I hope I was not offensive with the star, I thought this route was kick.
By slim
Administrator
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Surprised at this one being described as soft compared to other Shelf or Devil's Head 12a's. I thought it was pretty consistent climbing at a difficult level. Much more difficult than many/most of the new 12a's at Shelf, definitely harder than any of the 12a's I can think of at DH, and a substantial leap in difficulty from Lats.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Mar 22, 2013

Agreed with Slim. Maybe something broke?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 22, 2013

Younger and stronger in 2001....
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Nov 11, 2013

I think the 11d grade must refer to a different line than the standard one. The description by Richard mentions a seam curving back to Lats, and in the comments section, he mentions finishing at the Lats anchor. The line now finishes at an independent anchor, and IMO, is solid at 5.12a (or a/b).