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Horseshoe Canyon
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Uncomfortably Dumb 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,421
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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nearing the 5th or 6th bolt

Auburn Quarry Open Daily 'til Sundown! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the diheadral and then out onto a face. This is third bolted route from the left in Horseshoe canyon, and is one of the easier routes to track down. If you walk up the hillside to on of the 12's and look back, the top face sticks out quite well.

A good route with lots of interesting secitons for all abilities, and you may find a couple of the top bolts a little unnecessary. The top 20 or so feet is a cakwalk after exiting the diheadral.

I (5'9") thought this was a HARD 5.10a, because I can't reach the outside of the dihedral, unlike Jared (6'3"). The route became quite a balancing act for me, and seemed quite a different route to watch Jared climb.


Protection 

9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


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By mike carville
Mar 27, 2013

cool corner - probably worth sorting out/moving the bolt placements down low???
By tresa black
Apr 23, 2013

I really liked this route. Total chick route!! No strength involved, just good technique...super fun thanks Aaron!
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Jun 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

agreed with sorting bolt placing down, seems like the bolts are close when you dont need them are the spaced where it seems a little scary
By Wesley Szehner
From: Oakland, Ca
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pulled the cruz with a crazy high downturned right knee. Extreme value for .10a :|
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Brennen has a point but the route is not that scary so prob not worth the effort of changing bolts. My favorite route at the Quarry. Cool crystals and cracks on the top part.