Uncle Wiggly  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  VFA: Mike Colacino, Ron Kirk Submitted By:  Bill Duncan on Jul 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Uncle Wiggly.

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Description 

The first pitch climbs an easy crack to a left-arching dihedral. Climb out the arch to a vertical, left-facing dihedral, and climb up to the stance (marked as 1 in the photo), 5.9.

The second pitch follows the crack straight up (crux) and then traverses left to another crack. The crack is fairly small (RPs/HBs) until you reach the traverse. These are very nice delicate moves. It is brass city.

I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). It was climbed in the late '80s/early '90s. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location 

This route starts to the right of the prominent arete on the left side of the central Castle face. Find the striking 5.10 dihedral on the left side of the face and count the cracks from left to right. Crack number 4 is Uncle Wiggly. It looks like this climber is on the 2nd pitch:
www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/south_platte/buffalo_cree>>>

Protection 

Bring all your brass for the second pitch. Otherwise a standard Platte rack ought to do it.