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Turtle Rocks
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Slot, The 
Smack and Spray 
Uncle Kurt's Disco 
Unloved 
You Call Yourself a Thief? 
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Uncle Kurt's Disco 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bryan Hendrick, Evan Jewett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Bryan Hendrick on Jun 11, 2011
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Description 

The route is an obvious weakness in the large roof to the right of "The Slot". It is the offwidth crack. Belay from the ledge bellow the roof. From a small boulder, you can place a 0.5 C4 in a small crack in the roof. This has fun, boulder-like moves to move past the roof. After the roof, continue up the crack, the climbing gets easier. Finish at the bolts used for the slot. The roof is composed of an intrusion of smaller, grainular granite. Good climbing.


Location 

This is on the East side of Turtle Rock. It is the obvious weakness in the large roof to the right of the slot.


Protection 

Medium nuts, #0.3-2 c4 cams, bolt anchors.



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