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New Mexico
> Socorro Area
> Box Climbing Areas
> Northern Box areas
> Filet de Papillon Wal…
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 1.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
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96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Inchworm Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New Kids on the Block S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Corn V9 7C |
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Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Social Distancing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,111 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Feb 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This short powerful route is more sustained than it looks and has solid rock making it worth doing when your not sure what else to get on.
Start in a rounded dihedral and head up to the first bolt, make a hard bouldery reach out right to a key crimp and work up into a slopey hueco. A positive pocket or a higher jug work well for clipping the second bolt. Work up into the large hueco, clip the third bolt or fourth bolt and make a large reach for jugs on the ledge above.
Apparently at one time there were only 3 bolts, there are now 4, maybe the fourth is for accessing the new route above the ledge. I clipped all of them and topped out above the 4th bolt.
Can be used as access for the new route above.
Start in a rounded dihedral and head up to the first bolt, make a hard bouldery reach out right to a key crimp and work up into a slopey hueco. A positive pocket or a higher jug work well for clipping the second bolt. Work up into the large hueco, clip the third bolt or fourth bolt and make a large reach for jugs on the ledge above.
Apparently at one time there were only 3 bolts, there are now 4, maybe the fourth is for accessing the new route above the ledge. I clipped all of them and topped out above the 4th bolt.
Can be used as access for the new route above.
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