Uncertain Return 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | ??? (someone fill us in) |
| Submitted By: | Br'er Rabbit on Apr 11, 2011 |
| |
UR
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Description This route is outside the boundaries of the SCC property and is currently off-limits to climbing. Please do not trespass on private property by climbing this route. Posted for historical value and to clear up confusion on routes in the area.
P1: Climb the somewhat runout slab/face directly below the dihedral. Awesome climbing up into the hanging corner above, past some nice mantly-type moves to clear the roof to a fixed pin. Back up with small stoppers in the seem below. Clip pin from a good stemming stance, catch your breath, and then begin the leftward traverse passing some gear; a bolt; one really old, rusted, delaminated pin; and one more placement if you can stand to place it. Work your way left then escape to the big pine tree above. Don't forget to take in all that air below you......maybe 90' of actual movement.
ALT. Climb the easy, low angle, hand and fist crack in a corner to fixed belay. About 60'. 5.7. (This is the first pitch of the way old school route 'Exit Stage Right' which, after the nest of fixed gear, avoids P2 of 'U.R.' by escaping right on easier terrain.) Then continue up into the dihedral.
Rap from the pine tree. Slings come and go. I left a biner sometime back.
Location Left, back corner of the Ampitheatre.
Protection Standard Steele Rack....nothing too fancy on this one, although small stoppers near the first pin might ease one's mind.
| Comments on Uncertain Return |
|
By Derek DeBruin
May 8, 2011
| Don't remember who I was speaking to (Curt Merchant perhaps?), but I thought this route was called "Exit Stage Right." |
By Jamie S.
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| - ** ??? (someone fill us in) ***
This was freed by Les Hutchison and Ken Pitts followed. The exposure is incredible. Excellent route. I think Les and Mark Henley aided it years before, but not 100% on that. |
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Nov 10, 2011
| Found the following as a comment on this pic....
mountainproject.com/v/106375737
By KPitts
May 26, 2010
Uncertain Return was first aided by Mark Henley & Less Hutchinson, I'm uncertain of the date, maybe mid 70s. The FFA was by Less Hutchinson & Ken Pitts. The intimidating traverse under the roof kept us from even attempting the FFA for quite a while. Once we decided to give it a try, it went on the first attempt. The FFA climbed the somewhat run out slab directly below the dihedral.
Ken
|
By sammy raviv
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.10- PG13
| can be climbed in one pitch. If so bypass Exit Stage Right anchors as they may create rope drag..harder than 5.9 |
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