Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
Chick on the Side 
Conversions 
Court Jester 
Crazy Stairs 
Curving Dihedral 
Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
Good Ship Venus 
Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Unbroken Chain 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Charlton and Steve Morris, 1984
Page Views: 1,731
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Feb 22, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Making the difficult reach into the undercling.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on the face to the left of the first pitch of The Side Wall about halfway up the West Ridge. Climb up about 12 ft. in the corner of The Side Wall and then pull up and left following a series of underclings (crux). Follow a dihedral to the anchors. A fun toprope or a scary and strenuous lead. The holds are good, but the moves are reachy and the feet poor at the crux. This pitch felt harder and was definitely more pumpy than the first pitch of The Side Wall. There is a fun face climb to the left of this that is easily toproped as well (no name). It seemed to be in the hard 5.11 range somewhere.


Protection 

Easily toproped from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Sidewall (that's what I did). Otherwise, it looks like you could get some small to midsize cams in the underclings.



Photos of Unbroken Chain Slideshow Add Photo
Scott with the former undercling and first gear placement from Unbroken Chain. Decking hurts....
Scott with the former undercling and first gear pl...
Pulling into the shallow corner on P1 of False Prophet. False Prophet steps right to this point from the slab on the left. The top of P1 dihedral of Practice Climb 101/Practice Wall can be seen at the far left. The P2 dihedral of Sidewall/Practice Wall is directly above Adrien.
Pulling into the shallow corner on P1 of False Pro...
Adrien doing a strange upside down backstep with his right foot. He said it really helped...
Adrien doing a strange upside down backstep with h...
Scott getting back onto the flake after scoring a much needed rest out on the slab.
Scott getting back onto the flake after scoring a ...
There are two good undercling holds.
There are two good undercling holds.
Comments on Unbroken Chain Add Comment
Show which comments
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

While a pumpy lead, there is nothing X about this route. I got 9 bomber pieces in its 45 short feet. As an on-sight, it would definitely be more difficult to nail the placements and moves (maybe 11+).

By Scott Bennett
Mar 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R

This route is definitely not X-rated, although a fall low on the route could be dangerous if a piece pulled. I got a cam behind a thin flake/undercling to protect the first moves getting out of the Sidewall corner. Above that, the flake becomes thicker and the gear seemed much more bomber. Link this with False Prophet for a killer 120' pitch.
-Scott

By Chris Archer
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R

Oh man... sorry to see that picture, Scott. Hope your recovery is quick and look fw to seeing you back in Eldo.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

Scott, I'm so sorry man! I guess I was wrong about that flake and gear. Did you fall from very far above the flake? My thoughts are with you and I hope you have a fast recovery. That route is now probably a lot harder and way more dangerous.

peace,

adam

By Scott Bennett
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R

Thanks guys, I guess I was wrong about the pitch as well....
I fell with my left hand in the next undercling, about to place the next piece (a green Alien, which I think is pretty good).
Yeah, I'd be interested to hear if it feels harder now. I guess it's not really more dangerous, since the cam behind the flake was bound to blow sooner or later, but you'll have to get more creative with the other gear now. Perhaps double ropes, one clipped through the good TCU in the Sidewall corner, would make the lead a bit safer.
-Scott

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

Just TR'd this yesterday and it's waaay harder than before the flake broke.... I'd guess it's now 12a or possibly harder. The formerly sizable undercling is now a much harder to reach, one or two finger "undercling" on the far left side of where the flake broke. It's probably that much harder to lead safely now too. But still a fun and powerful TR for sure!

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

11d R now would be my guess. With some tinkering, there might be some gear, but it would be very thin.