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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unbound 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 7, 2005
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Description 

The route is located about 10-15 left of the Children of a Lesser Grade slab.

Boulder up to the first bolt. Make several hard moves up a thin-technical seam to a ledge. Crank up the ramp and face above to a two-bolt anchor.

There was a bolting ban in the canyon that lasted for several years that when from the start of the canyon to the Virgin Wall.

This route is not in that area. Great addition to the area.


Protection 

Five clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor. Stick-clip or boulder up to the first bolts.



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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 13, 2005

I tried this route the other day as a warmup because it gets early sun, not knowing what it was. It's much harder than it looks!

The top anchor currently consists of two bolts w/hangers and a single quick link on each hanger. If someone could add a single chain link or ring to each bolt, it would make for a lot cleaner descent, w/o rope twistage. Or just rap off one bolt.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 16, 2005

If I ever go up it again, I'll bring some links. I've decided that I should just bring extra links and chain to Penitente from now on anyway. Especially since I like to try the obscure routes...it's probably a good idea for everyone else too.