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Broken Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 


YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 2,126
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Jasmine the Canadian hardwoman belaying her husban...


Great looking right-facing corner. Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down. There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest". The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.


Route starts on the right side of the wall, just a little farther to the right of Broken Tooth. Can't miss this corner.


A selection of pieces in the fingers to tight-hands range (purple to green Camalots, a blue Alien). Some hand pieces as well (red and gold Camalots).

Photos of Unbelievable Slideshow Add Photo
Climber just below the Crux
Climber just below the Crux
Matt Pesce sending Unbelievable in great style
Matt Pesce sending Unbelievable in great style

Comments on Unbelievable Add Comment
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By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2007

A concentration of .5 and .75 Camalots with a #3 at the start and a #3 to protect the OW flare move at the finish. One purple TCU adequately protects the crux move without blocking the holds and be sure to have a couple 1 and 2 Camalots as well.

Great Route!
By Scott Bennett
Nov 6, 2009

Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.

Have fun,
By BronsonH
Apr 3, 2012

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This is a mega classic for sure! It had Steve Hong hangers so I'm assuming thats who got the FA?
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 26, 2012

A clean 5.11 corner with one or two hard moves (well protected). This is on my list for anchor replacement...but let me know if you get there first.
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