Unbelievable 5.12
| 1,490 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Nov 6, 2006 |
| |
Climber just below the Crux
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Great looking right-facing corner. Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down. There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest". The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.
Location Route starts on the right side of the wall, just a little farther to the right of Broken Tooth. Can't miss this corner.
Protection A selection of pieces in the fingers to tight-hands range (purple to green Camalots, a blue Alien). Some hand pieces as well (red and gold Camalots).
Jasmine the Canadian hardwoman belaying her husban...
|
Matt Pesce sending Unbelievable in great style
| |
By Alex Shainman
From: Portland, OR
Nov 15, 2007
| A concentration of .5 and .75 Camalots with a #3 at the start and a #3 to protect the OW flare move at the finish. One purple TCU adequately protects the crux move without blocking the holds and be sure to have a couple 1 and 2 Camalots as well.
Great Route! |
By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Nov 6, 2009
| Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.
Have fun,
-Scott |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.12
| This is a mega classic for sure! It had Steve Hong hangers so I'm assuming thats who got the FA? |
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 26, 2012
| A clean 5.11 corner with one or two hard moves (well protected). This is on my list for anchor replacement...but let me know if you get there first. |
|
RSS Feed
51 more...
Slideshow
