||Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Evan Stevens, Jesse Huey (w/ Jeremy Blumel and Jasmin Caton|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,142|
|Submitted By: ||Evan Stevens on Aug 21, 2012|
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p5 of UnBearable, Gentleman's Flake
After climbing 2 of the hard routes on the Prow Wall (there are no easy routes here!) I spotted a line to the top that looked like the easiest way up the Prow wall, thinking it would be nice to do a free route up this amazing piece of stone that wasn't 5.13! The result is a bit easier, sharing pitches from T-Bears and Gravity Bong, with 4 new pitches of stellar crack climbing.
p1. 5.11a. Same as Gravity Bong, originally graded 10c, but expect 11a awkward flare climbing on the bottom half. At the top go up and right to a bolted belay shared with Teddy Bears Picnic and Gravity Bong. 35m, watch for loose rocks on ledge.
p2. 5.10c Walk the ledge at the base of the wall left for 10m or so until you get to a 5.8 ramp with a corner crack that is a little dirty. Go up this for 15m to a stance and then get in the flake crack on the main wall until the nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor (p. 1 of Teddy Bears joins here.) 35m.
p3. 5.11c Same as Teddy Bears p2. 2 bolts on the tips flake/crack and some more cranking bring you to a ledge with a short wide crack. Up this to stance, clip a bolt, and layback the arete on the left to come to a stance at the base of the amazing elevator shaft. Stem, double cracks, jam layback up the amazing shaft to a nice ledge and 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p4. 5.12a Starts the same as Teddy Bears but goes up and left through the slot at the top of the shaft. Tips laybacking and stemming in the brilliant rock gets you to a chimney stem rest. Bust up and left in the purple camalots out the roof that goes at an easier grade than you would imagine. Follow the feature up and left until you get to the treed ledge with with a 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p5. 5.11, the Gentleman's Flake, harder for small hands. At the left end of the ledge followed the flake cracks up to the stumps in the overlap flake crack, that can be jammed, laybacked or underclinged, 1 4 camalot at the start of the business and then 3 camalots out the traverse. Pull on the tree to the 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p6. 5.10 Lots of options, the crux is in the first ten feet. then you can either grovel up the chimney with face holds to a 2 bolt anchor (15m) or traverse left past a chopped cedar stump and face climb on cracks and ledges far left to another 2 bolt anchor by a small tree. Pull over to an awesome top out ledge!
Walk off towards the first summit across the top of the prow wall to gain the 2nd summit trail above the ladder.
Do any route on the apron (Rock on, calculus or st. vitus are good warm ups) and walk the trail at the top to get to the Ultimate Everything. Cross under the Kashmir Wall to get to the South Gully. Go up the gully (kind of gross) past a huge stuck flake/block and pull up on fixed lines on left wall of gully. Right before the gully dead ends, you will see a flared crack on the left wall. This is the Prow Wall access pitch, same as gravity bong.
1 set of nuts
1 x .4 to 4, with doubles of .5, .75 and 3.
C3s x 2 (yellow, red and green) with one purple.
5 quick draws, 5 shoulder slings.
Half way up the crux p4 of UnBearable
By Jesse Huey
Aug 21, 2012
This climb is worth doing! The 11c and 12- pitches are two very amazing pitches and NOBODY ever climbs on this wall. It will leave you wanting more, and will probably get you on the harder routes to the right. Do it!