Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Unaweep Wall

Select Area...
Get-away Wall 

Unaweep Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 1,255
Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Aug 28, 2011
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Sensitive ecosystem MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the largest chunk of rock in the canyon. This wall is very obvious if one takes the drive towards Gateway. In KC Baum's book of the area, the only documented route up the discontinuous 1300' face is his route Ancient Wisdom. The formations offers mostly good rock with the usual bands and streaks of poor quality rock. As mentioned in the guide, the cracks do tend to flare quite often and seam out. There is enough rock here to keep you busy for a long time.

The Unaweep Seep is an amazing ecosystem nestled in Unaweep. Please tread lightly!

Getting There 

It is 23.5 miles west of Divide Road. Park as for the Unaweep Seep parking. Walk further west to where the lush vegetation decreases and crossing the river is more manageable.

If hiking for the tallest section of the cliff, follow the main drainage that will take you parallel to the face. Then cut towards the face up the steep slope. The approach further west is less distance, but it is a difficult scree slope that is very steep.

Climbing Season

For the Main Canyon: Unaweep Granite area.

Weather station 17.3 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Unaweep Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks smaller than it is (that's what she said).

"That's All I'm Asking For!" 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  CO : Grand Junction Area : ... : Get-away Wall
The route¬ís title comes from a song in "Cannibal! The Musical", a song for the ages and one that was sung particularly often on this adventure. In the end, the route was all that we had asked for. We originally planned to do a new route that went up the longest section of the wall where Ancient Wisdom lies, but after seeing the broken and ledgy profile of the face we opted for the steeper west side that would offer more sustained climbing at the cost of a few hundred feet. This route started of...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Unaweep Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An Adelpha bredowii (Bedrow's Sister) Butterfly fo...
An Adelpha bredowii (Bedrow's Sister) Butterfly fo...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the mist.
In the mist.

Comments on Unaweep Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris N
From: Loveland, Co
Feb 8, 2016
I remember this rock from November 22, 1980. I was working in Edwards and got a call from Jim Morrison (no, not the dead Doors singer), my climbing partner on many an occasion. He had moved to GJ a couple of weeks before. The conversation was "how is it going" then he went right into how he had found a "350 foot" cliff and how we had to do it that day!

I jumped in my truck and hauled ass to GJ, picked him up, stopped and got some snacks then hauled out of town. The trip was amazing, I had never seen so much untouched granite before. I remember that we parked below the cliff at 12 noon.

I looked up and told him he was a total stoner (we both were!) if he thought that the cliff was only 350 ft high. I let him talk me into giving it a try, so we racked up. We didn't have a bolt kit so we decided to bring a small rack of pins and a hammer "just in case".

We headed to the base of the cliff then took a left up more scree to the base of the south face. Here was an odd left leaning, 75' wide slot that narrowed far up above with an overhang up above to the right. The 1st pitch was dirt & plant filled cracks to a belay on the left. The next pitch was neat and kind of freaky; from the belay head up and right to exit the slot above the overhang. We called this pitch the Jigsaw Puzzle pitch. It seemed like the whole wall was covered with an exfoliated rock that was 2 inches thick and in small interlocked pieces, you could grab a piece (your handhold) and pull it straight out and put it back. Interesting!

There were a couple of more easy pitches trending up and right that led to an alcove-ledge. From here the only way out was straight up, a nice clean looking seam that looked like it might go at 5.9 or 5.10 or 5.11. The problem was you could only see half the pitch and IT WAS GETTING VERY DARK!

Jim suggested using matches. I had climbed with Jim before in RMNP where we had run out of daylight. He lit matches and I led. This time I told him "no thanks, this is your climb". So we knew we were going to have to sit there all night.

After sitting in our little alcove in the dark for about 45 minutes we started noticing down below us that there was a stream of clouds coming in from the west, we could see them because they had a strange glow (from starlight?). They looked snowy. At this point I decided it was time to bail!

I told Jim that I was bailing and started digging out the pitons, when I asked him for the hammer he said that he had forgot to bring it. WHAT? You fucking bastard!

I felt around in the dark and found a likely crack, started a pin in it, grabbed a small rock and told Jim to light a match. I managed to get four pins pounded in with crumbling granite stones. Jim said "are you going to rap on this crap?" I told him "better than hanging out here in a storm with you" after rapping about 30' Jim started screaming that 1 of the pins had popped, after 50' more, another one. A bit further I found the big tree that we had passed along the way and stopped there. Jim sucked it up and followed.

The next rap was the scary one, right off the giant overhang in the pitch black. Jim asked if I was going to kill myself and I said that if I did it would be a very lonely vigil for him.

For once I had tied an overhand knot at the end of the rope. As soon I was at the end of the rope - nothing but my rappel set up, then my hand and then the knot at the end of the rope! Holy shit, what next? Nothing left to do but start swinging around in the dark. A short swing later I felt the rock, a bigger swing got me a great jam and a perfect bomber hexcentric placement - UNFUCKING believable! I felt around and found a couple of backup up placements, NICE!!

Jim was with me in a short while later and one more rap and we were on the ground. A quick haul ass to the bottom of the scree slope, then some bushwhacking to the truck and a 40 minute drive got us back to GJ and some beer!

We were going to name the route "Until the End" from the Doors but never made it to the end. So if you see some old gear hanging below a roof to the right or a couple of pins below a nice seam, think of the hubris of a couple of stoner climbers from the 1970s & '80s.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Feb 12, 2016
Love this! Thank you for sharing the story, Chris N! I think everyone has a story or two about an epic in that canyon! The place is magical but will play dirty.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!