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Cliffs of Insanity
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Unamed 5.10+ 
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Unamed 5.10+ 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,200
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Nov 4, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The route.


Great splitter hands that pitches you out of the crack a lot. Goes through a small roof near the top with sketchy block below the roof.


Left of where the approach trail meets the crag about five minutes on the north face.


Thin hands to fists, heavy on 3.0"-3.5" and a #4 camalot. 2 drilled angles with climbing rope for the anchor (bring replacement webbing).

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What a beautiful line
What a beautiful line
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By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 25, 2012

This striking pitch is not only great fun, but features a cooling ventilation system that begins about 30 or 40 feet up. The sketchy block/flake is definitely not sound, but can be thoughtfully avoided. The climb is a longer-than-you-think walk left from where the approach trail reaches the cliff.

By Will McDonald
Apr 27, 2012

Huge fun. You can get down with a 70m and minor shenanigans.

By greg t
Oct 17, 2012

The sketchy blocks are quiet sketchy looking indeed. They also happen to be right before the crux, making the gear a little lower on the climb than some may like. They can be passed with some finesse, but use your head and dont belay underneath the climb. Other than that, this is one of the best handcracks at the creek.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

What a great pitch! Do be carefull with the avoidable looseness below the roof. Also at the top where the rock turns from splitter big hands to a questionable flake. I did not put any pro in this last 10' before the anchor. There is also a bit of looseness right before the anchor.

The crowds were gathered around MC's when we got to the base. Asked a guy if he knew how far left it was to this route. He said "We don't go to the left". What a mistake, this guys ego is causing him to miss one steller pitch.