Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Warbonnet Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Elk T 
Brown Cow T 
Col du Ane T 
Drop of a hat... T 
feather buttress T 
Northeast Face, Left T 
our route T 
Roof of Tears T 
Un-named T 
Weather Or Not... T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 706
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
pitch 2


Start same as for Brown Cow.

P-1 Climb the low angle ramp to a stance below the splitter corner and belay.

P-2 Climb the obvious corner (left) via increasingly larger crack to some interesting moves around the large chockstones and up to a nice ledge and belay.

P-3 Climb the steep and amazing hand crack through the small roof where it turns to hands/thin hands (crux). Continue up the amazing flake to a short traverse left and a 2 bolt anchor.

Either rap or continue up numerous variations. The best one would take the upper half (pitch 6,7) of "Weather Or Not". That would make for a great link-up instead of the easy corner.


Right of "Weather Or Not" and just left of "Brown Cow".


Standard rack of at least doubles from fingers to fists. Maybe a #5 too.

Photos of Un-named Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 with the chockstone above.
Pitch 2 with the chockstone above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 2.  The obvious handcrack behin...
Looking down pitch 2. The obvious handcrack behin...
Rock Climbing Photo: topo

Comments on Un-named Add Comment
Show which comments
By michalm
Aug 18, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The first two pitches have a fair bit of flaky, dirty, loose rock. Once established in the corner, the rock quality is good but dirty, dusty, and vegetated. From the moves below the chockstone until the top of the 3rd pitch, this route is really engaging. The rock is a bit flaky and crusty in places due to a lack of travel, but the upper pitch is really wild and high-quality. The handcrack is deceptively steep and pumpy with mostly locker jams. The 10+ handcrack is followed by a reachy moves to a diminishing hands roof. Smaller hands will make the crux moves easier. The rock quality from the upper handcrack to the top of the flake is unbeatable. The upper ledge above the chockstone alcove is the best place to belay. A 60m rope will not link the first two pitches. 2 60m raps are required to reach the ground. Nothing over a #3 is needed.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!