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 ADVANCED
Warbonnet Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Elk T 
Brown Cow T 
Drop of a hat... T 
feather buttress T 
Northeast Face, Left T 
our route T 
Un-named T 
Weather Or Not... T 
Unsorted Routes:

Un-named 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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pitch 2

Description 

Start same as for Brown Cow.

P-1 Climb the low angle ramp to a stance below the splitter corner and belay.

P-2 Climb the obvious corner (left) via increasingly larger crack to some interesting moves around the large chockstones and up to a nice ledge and belay.

P-3 Climb the steep and amazing hand crack through the small roof where it turns to hands/thin hands (crux). Continue up the amazing flake to a short traverse left and a 2 bolt anchor.

Either rap or continue up numerous variations. The best one would take the upper half (pitch 6,7) of "Weather Or Not". That would make for a great link-up instead of the easy corner.

Location 

Right of "Weather Or Not" and just left of "Brown Cow".

Protection 

Standard rack of at least doubles from fingers to fists. Maybe a #5 too.


Photos of Un-named Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2 with the chockstone above.
Pitch 2 with the chockstone above.
Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Looking down pitch 2.  The obvious handcrack behin...
Looking down pitch 2. The obvious handcrack behin...
topo
BETA PHOTO: topo

Comments on Un-named Add Comment
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By michalm
Aug 18, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The first two pitches have a fair bit of flaky, dirty, loose rock. Once established in the corner, the rock quality is good but dirty, dusty, and vegetated. From the moves below the chockstone until the top of the 3rd pitch, this route is really engaging. The rock is a bit flaky and crusty in places due to a lack of travel, but the upper pitch is really wild and high-quality. The handcrack is deceptively steep and pumpy with mostly locker jams. The 10+ handcrack is followed by a reachy moves to a diminishing hands roof. Smaller hands will make the crux moves easier. The rock quality from the upper handcrack to the top of the flake is unbeatable. The upper ledge above the chockstone alcove is the best place to belay. A 60m rope will not link the first two pitches. 2 60m raps are required to reach the ground. Nothing over a #3 is needed.
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