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Art of War, The S 
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Un-named 01 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott & Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: Nate Adams on Jul 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Chris Deulen starting the short traverse left afte...

Description 

One of the better routes in this area.

Location 

First route on topo.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Un-named 01 Slideshow Add Photo
C.D. going a little too the right.
C.D. going a little too the right.

Comments on Un-named 01 Add Comment
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By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Sep 3, 2007

I found the first 2 bolts powerful, and the traverse a bit pumpy, but thought the crux was around the 6th bolt right after the small ledge with good underclings. Finding the right crimpy sequence through this section without cutting your palms up is quite a feat! This area needs more traffic and is still very dirty/dusty.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a good route with very fun moves over a roof. Mid way after the under clings I traversed a little right into a corner and stemmed for two moves then went back on face. I think if you climbed the face direct it would be pretty solid 12c. I tried the straight up way with my partner a couple times and neither of us could do the moves. We are both very solid at the 12a grade and no way is direct up the face 12a. I think it still feels 12a if you use the corner out right, and this doesn't even feel that off route as you can still clip all the bolts fairly easily.