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Ummagumma Crack 


Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 1,637
Submitted By: sam.f on Jun 3, 2009

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Sam sticks the first move on Ummagumma.


An obvious, striking line on the namesake boulder. Locate a massive hueco (starting hold), pull into this (shorter climbers may need a pad stack or jump start), fire for the next good hueco that is not-so-close. An accurate, powerful deadpoint will get you there. From this hold, most people match, then bust out left with a left hand, then negotiate the tricky, but not too difficult topout. You may wish that someone came-by with a push-broom for the top, but this is doubtful.


If approaching up the hill from B1/Turlock Area, this problem will be on the right-ish side and very obvious.


Might want a pad

Photos of Ummagumma Slideshow Add Photo
Anonymous Bachar memorial at Boulder 1.
Anonymous Bachar memorial at Boulder 1.
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By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 3, 2009

I'm not too sure about the grade on this one. I've seen it on 8a scorecards as V7, but that seems inflated (maybe due to the 8spray--er 8a origin). Maybe V7 is fair if you're short. I heard Bachar originally said 5.11 but that's quite a sandbag. It seemed 6ish to me, but it's all relative...

By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Jan 8, 2010

Another note: I hear that many people topout by moving to the right after the 1st (crux) move. IMO, it does not really matter how you top it out, assuming you do the first move. Moving right to topout definitely makes it not as high and a better landing, should you blow it.