Ultra Violets  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Bob Scarpelli and Mike Nicsich, 1980 Submitted By:  Jeffery on May 17, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Begin climbing in an obvious corner using stems and finger jams to a two bolt belay(5.9). "Step left climb directly up and through a large offwidth(5.10d)". Zach Orenczak, Fat Crack Country

Location 

Northside of John's Tower. Scramble up a slab and traverse left (sketchy) till you reach the corner. There is not much to anchor the belayer in at this spot, so we chose to belay down on the lower ledges. This is also a good idea if you have dogs. Just to the right of the Unnamed 5.9 and Scarlet Begonias.

Protection 

Small nuts and cams for the first 5.9 pitch. I did not climb the OW section, but it looks like you would need some really large gear.