Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Uinta Mountains

Select Area...
Castle Lake 
Cliff Lake 
Fehr Lake 
Hayden Peak 
Jax Cliff 
Moosehorn 
Mosquito Wall 
Mount Beulah 
Notch Lake 
Picturesque Wall 
Portal, The 
Recess, The 
Ruth Lake 
Scout Lake 
Stone Garden 
Wall Of Tiers 
Yard Peak 

Uinta Mountains 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.7473, -110.511 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 263,049
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 18, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
loading weather...
Sport climbing doesn't get much better.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Uinta Mountains are a relatively high elevation locale away from the summer heat in the valleys. It consists of steep horizontally cracked quartzite. A newcomer to the climbing scene, the Unita's have evolved into a popular sport climber's destination.


Getting There 

From SLC, take I-80 east to exit 148. Take US-40 toward Vernal for 3.8 miles. Exit 4 will be UT-248. Take a left and drive for 11.4 miles. Turn left onto UT-32 (S. Main St.) in Kamas. Drive .2 miles then turn right onto UT-150 (E. Center St. (Mirror Lake Scenic Byway)).

Expect 1 hr. and 20 min. from SLC.


198 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',60],['2 Stars',88],['1 Star',37],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',18],['5.8',23],['5.9',29],['5.10',70],['5.11',36],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Uinta Mountains:
Fear of Gear   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 40'   Stone Garden
Vulgaria   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Cliff Lake
Where Vultures Dare   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall
Lake Effect   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 50'   Cliff Lake
Peace Treaty   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Black Elk   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Sacred Hoop   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 60'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Wish You Were Here   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   Moosehorn : The Moore Wall
Native Utard   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Wall Of Tiers
The Legend   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Moon Stone   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
The Shield   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Wall Of Tiers
Sun & Steel   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall
Wind Walker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Dream Catcher   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Dog Man   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall
Good Medicine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Sessions   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Stone Garden
Ghost Dance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 40'   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Warrior Without a Cause   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall
Browse More Classics in Uinta Mountains

Featured Route For Uinta Mountains
Crimpin aint easy

Good Medicine 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Good Medicine Area
Lay back or jam the overhanging crack to a crimpy prow. One of the steepest route in the Ruth Lake area and not a gimmi for the grade. Try not to pump out or else be ready for some air time!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Uinta Mountains
Photos of Uinta Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
climbing at cliff lake
climbing at cliff lake
High Uintas
High Uintas
Ostler Peak from Ostler Meadow.  My dad and brothers on an Independence Day backpacking trip.
Ostler Peak from Ostler Meadow. My dad and brothe...
Another classic day!
Another classic day!
Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayden Peak. Nice storm clouds! Got rained out big time shortly after this photo was taken. <br /> <br />
Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayde...
2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.
3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Ha...
Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayden peak looking snowy in the background.
Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayde...
crack in the stack
crack in the stack
Photo by Tyler Phillips <br /> <br />
Photo by Tyler Phillips

Shot from camping area, believe that's Blady in the background or close to it.
Shot from camping area, believe that's Blady in th...
Small pond along the way.
Small pond along the way.
Another fine view in the Uintas.
Another fine view in the Uintas.
The ever roaming moose!
The ever roaming moose!
2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Eddies High, Hayden Peak.
2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Ed...
CTC
CTC
Red Castle from below Red Castle Lake.  A long way to pack your rack, near-constant rock fall, yet a rumor exists that it has been climbed!
Red Castle from below Red Castle Lake. A long way...
King's Peak, the highest point in Utah, along with its lofty neighbors.  Photo taken from ridge between Red Castle and Wilson Peak.  Great view of the lakes from here (not pictured).
King's Peak, the highest point in Utah, along with...
Talk about views!
Talk about views!
JawBone5.10
JawBone5.10
dusk at ruth lake
dusk at ruth lake
morning at ruth
morning at ruth
Charming the Choss
Charming the Choss
Is this is how they climb in columbia? Paul @ Notch Lake.
Is this is how they climb in columbia? Paul @ Notc...
CTC
CTC
Comments on Uinta Mountains Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 11, 2007

Uinta Rock, by Nathan Smith and Paul Tusting, is a fantastic resource for those interested in climbing along the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway. Complete with photographic topos, maps to the crags, scenic action photos and helpful information for local services, this guide is a passport to some super summer climbing, away from the heat and crowds.

By Josh M.
From: Golden, CO
May 15, 2009

What's the camping scene like here? Haven't checked the Uinta Rock guide, but is there any nearby? Parking? Thanks!

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2010

Could anyone comment on the quality of the climbing in the Uintas? Is it road trip worthy? Thanks!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2010

I wouldn't road trip there from the East Coast, but from Boulder it is certainly worth a 3-4 day weekend.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2010

What are the best walls and where is the best camping? Thanks!

By Baylord
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Jul 24, 2010

I was up there for a day on the 21st of july it was awesome, the weather was nice and the routes were great too.

By J Geisler
Aug 16, 2012

2012 SLCA Adopt-A-Crag Volunteer Sign-up

Event Date: Rain or Shine, Saturday August 18, 2012
Time: 9:00 AM, please car pool
Place: Ruth Lake Parking Lot, Uintas, UT

The SLCA is partnering with the Access Fund Conservation Crew, American Alpine Club, US Forest Service, Liberty Mountain, Black Diamon, Petzl, The Front Climbing Club and Backcountry.com for the Ruth Lake Adopt-A-Crag. Thank you for volunteering!

Please be prepared for mountain weather conditions, which are unpredictable and subject to rapid change. Please bring lunch and plenty of water. Our projects require the use of tools, which should be accompanied by a certain type of attire for your safety and that of others around you. Listed below are items to wear or bring to ensure your volunteer experience is a positive one.
Required:
Long Pants
Boots (sturdiest shoes possible, with closed-toe, no sandals!)
Sunglasses or other eye protection
Lunch / Water (2 - 3 quarts)
Leather Gloves
Suggested:
Sunscreen
Rain gear
Hat
Extra layers

Be prepared for arduous work at 10,500 feet and lasting up to 5 hours. All personal items must be carried by each individual in a backpack. If you pack it in, please pack it out. Also, dehydration is a real concern during the summer months. Please bring enough water to last the entire length of service. Please also note that most work on trails takes place at high elevations. Please come prepared with an Epi pen if you are allergic to stings, and please also notify work leaders of any special health or medical considerations when you arrive on site.

Meet us at 9:00 AM at the parking lot at the Ruth Lake parking lot at about mile marker 35 which is 28.8 miles from the Fee Area booth near Kamas. Parking passes will be provided by the US Forest Service.

The Access Fund Conservation Crew will lead volunteers to build natural rock steps up the eroding banks at the base of these walls, making this crag more sustainable and enjoyable.

After the work is done, please enjoy a BBQ provided American Alpine Club, a raffle and climbing. Free camping is available Saturday night, water is not available but there will be bathrooms.

If you have questions, send email to slca@saltlakeclimbers.org.

We appreciate your support!

Adopt a Crag!
Adopt a Crag!

By Bastian
Aug 29, 2012

An update for directions.

Take exit 146 instead of 148.

Awesome place to climb. Went up 8/27.

By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Aug 4, 2013

I have been looking around for the Uinta Rock book, however everyone seems to be out of the book and its out of print. Does anyone know if either the Rock Climbing the Wasatch Falcon Guide or the Rock Climbing Utah 2nd Edition have sufficient coverage for the Uintas? Many thanks for any feedback.