Just like the children's story that inspired the name, Ugly Duckling starts out on an ugly face which eventually turns into something beautiful.
Pitch one: Climb a boulder problem start (.10a) on good edges up and onto the mossy slab. Make your way right and up, cleaning the edges off as you go until you reach the first bolt(runnout). Continue cleaning as you climb straight up below an oak tree's branches before reaching another bolt (runnout). At this piont, the rock becomes cleaner as well as steeper. Climb good knobs (.8) until you reach the third bolt (runnout). Follow the thin crack right and up to the belay in the corner alcove.
Pitch two: This is where the climb becomes beautiful. Traverse left out a hand crack (.9) on amazing glacier polish. The best granite at Swan Slab is found in this section. When the traverse ends, climb straight up and pull the crux (.10c) with good gear at your feet. The climb then tops out on an easy wide flake and crack.
This route is located on the mossy face left of Lena's Lieback. On the right side of Swan Slab. For the start, look for a boulder problem start ten feet left of a tree. Its hard to see the first bolt, but from the start, it is up and right about thirty feet.
There is a variation to the right with two bolts. This option is not recommended.
After topping out, walk off to the right.
Standard rack thin to #4 camalot. Also bring quickdraws and shoulder slings.
Bring a nut tool with you on lead to clean off holds and to clean the beginning of the thin crack after the third bolt.
Sep 8, 2010
Those who seek quality filth and runnouts will love this one. The nasty moss on pitch one hides a wonderful low angle face with chunky edges. Simply put, the polish on the second pitch traverse belongs in Tuolumne.
To date, the bolts are all good but could be better.
A fall from the 5.8 knobs between the second and third bolts will put you into the tree.