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The Prudential
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Machine Head S 
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Practice, The S 
Premium, The S 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
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Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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ugly-ish crack

Description 

I put in 30-45 min cleaning it today then climbed it. 2nd ascent? It felt pretty hard for the grade. I can't believe it got the 5.9 grade when it was totally covered in filth, nice work Mark. The moves involve lots of balance and a bit of crack climbing skill. The good news is it's now a bit more clean and it protects quite well.

Climb the discontinuous cracks up the face between 2 crappy sport routes. Fingerlocks and face moves get you to an anchor on the left just below the big ledge.

Location 

In the middle of the dirty lower wall at Prudential...

Protection 

A small rack.


Photos of Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) Slideshow Add Photo
in it to win it
in it to win it
matt wallace
matt wallace
me on ugly crack
me on ugly crack

Comments on Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 29, 2011

Rare plants grow at the base just to the right of this route, in a little alcove that dogs like to dig up to make a bed, so if you climb here and have a dog, keep it tied up and out of there please, and don't throw your packs on the spot. I don't remember the plant 's name, but a biologist came through with his students and pointed them out. They are seasonal, so you wont see anything most of the time. The spot might be worthy of a little stone wall defining it and a little sign.

All in all the route is pretty "eh", so I suggested that Ward put it in the guide as "unrecommended" to help protect the plants.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 12, 2012

I had it mostly clean, especially any important spots when I did it, Lee. I am sure it had grown back over the years since. and, yeah, it is a good chance yours was the second lead ascent, Lee.