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UFO Arete 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ben Sachs, Christian Drum 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jun 4, 2009

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Working the technical crux.

Description 

This route features power-endurance climbing at its finest. Probably only 40 feet of hard climbing, but every single move will push you. Boulder the start to the route's only jug and clip the 2nd bolt from a decent hold above it. Slap your way up the slopey rail until you can quickly fire in some gear from a poor hold and pull a final boulder problem to a horizontal rail. Mantle the rail and summit the cliff on easier terrain to find an anchor. Fun, pumpy, and unique for the region.


Location 

Obvious arete in middle of crag


Protection 

2 bolts, cams (fingers to hands), Bolted Anchor. Shorter folks might like to pre-hang a draw on the 2nd bolt. Also nice to anchor the belayer into something while the leader is gunning for the gear placements out the rail. This thing will feel sporty until you take the falls a few times.



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