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Ueli Steck and Simone Moro attacked by sherpas on Everest
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By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 29, 2013
Aiding.

In what I read the white guys went out of their way to not really trash-talk the Sherpas much, even though they were (allegedly) threatening a mob beat down.

You know what that tells me? These guys knew they were at least partially in the wrong, or they are ego-less saints (the latter seems rather unlikely for world-class climbers).

If you think you did right, you don't apologize for the guy who tried to beat you up.

But we weren't there, and we will most likely NEVER hear both sides of this story, so we'll never know,


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By The Stoned Master
From Millerstown, PA
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.

CSPROUL wrote: I don't know what happened, but I do know that we'll almost certainly have a bunch of internet armchair climbers who have never left their country, met a Sherpa, or climbed above 6000m (let alone 8000m)tell us all about what happened and/or let us know lame it is to "walk up" Everest anyway!

Did it ever occur that there is more than 1 point of view in the world? More than 1 way to approach something? I'm interested in the social/cultural/psychological aspect. The climbing is irrelevant here.

Plus because a human climbs above 6000m he is an expert on all sherpa? Climbing above 6000m makes you an expert/experienced/open to other cultures? Psychology? Sociology? Even if he only climbed in patagonia and never met a sherpa?

There is more than ONE point of view in the world.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Apr 29, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Stoned, I think that csproul was just pointing out that most people with fervent opinions on the subject (both here and elsewhere) are likely ones that have never experienced that level of alpinism and don't have much if any experience with it in that part of the world, and I tend to agree with him.

I certainly don't think he's suggesting that no one should offer a different perspective from any other aspect. I agree with what you're saying, I just think your disdain is misplaced.


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By The Stoned Master
From Millerstown, PA
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.

As if being in an environment that is not hospitable isn't scary/hard enough now you have 100+ violent humans attacking you. Wow! Its not like a flat parking lot up there where you could easily run away in most likely any direction. I find this story to be very interesting.


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By Zak Munro
From VT, Leadville CO
Apr 29, 2013
Wild Iris, Dynamitic 5.7

this is a pretty sad incident to think about, great climbers like Steck and Moro getting into altercations with the Sherpas. From many of the articles and sources it sounds like Steck, Griffith, Moro did the right thing in the situation, and the altercation came from not that direct instance but from a long troubled relationship between the Sherpa people and western climbers. To bad the expedition had to end so abruptly when the potential for a new route was in their grasps


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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Apr 29, 2013
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-failure two bolts later.

Summary of the information available online:

News Organizations:
BBC: www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-22336540
Sky News: news.sky.com/story/1084165/mount-everest-climbers-and-sherpa>>>
BMC (Ed Douglas): https://www.thebmc.co.uk/into-the-death-threat-zone
Guardian (Ed Douglas): www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/apr/29/everest-conquest-annive>>>
Planet Mountain: www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyi>>>

People on Everest:
Simone Moro 1st-hand account: www.simonemoro.com/en/content/everest-8848-m
Simone Moro Interview: www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyi>>>
Adrian Ballanger's blog: alpenglowexpeditions.com/blog/everest-best-and-worst-0

Others:
Andrew Bisharat: eveningsends.com/2013/04/everest-is-not-for-climbers/
(includes an excerpted email from Jonathan Griffith, one of the climbers attacked)


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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Apr 29, 2013
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-failure two bolts later.

Key words from Simone Moro :

"
How did you defend yourselves ... in your account you mention that climbers in Camp 2 tried to save you...
We owe our lives mainly to 4 people. The first and most important is American climber Melissa Arnot. Then a Sherpa named Pan Nuru. Then an American guide named Greg who belongs to the IMG expedition.

I know it's difficult to answer, but what’s next? What’s going to on now?
We’re abandoning the expedition… Despite having met those who attacked us, having embraced and having forgiven them, I wanted that the meeting with everyone at base camp ended with my words that underlined the esteem I have for the Sherpa and Nepal, but I also stated that this violence killed our climbing dream and that we are leaving. I will probably stay on, but only to fly the helicopter and carry out rescue operations, but Ueli and Jon will return home. I want to add that that fact that I wish to stay and help with rescues (free for the Sherpa people) shows my desire to help these people. Everyone here is shocked and aware of the violence that was committed, they realised that a simple handshake isn’t enough to change a relationship that has mutated too much since that one in 1953. "


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By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 29, 2013
CoR

Fixed ropes are the cause. Ban them. Get rid of that stupid ladder too and while you are at it, pick up your trash.


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By builttospill
Apr 29, 2013

Timothy.Klein wrote:
In what I read the white guys went out of their way to not really trash-talk the Sherpas much, even though they were (allegedly) threatening a mob beat down. You know what that tells me? These guys knew they were at least partially in the wrong, or they are ego-less saints (the latter seems rather unlikely for world-class climbers). If you think you did right, you don't apologize for the guy who tried to beat you up. But we weren't there, and we will most likely NEVER hear both sides of this story, so we'll never know,



That might be the way YOU react. But it's entirely possible that someone who felt wronged didn't feel like shitting on a group of people they genuinely respect and who are not likely to be able to defend themselves in the media and on the internet. And maybe they didn't want to inflame things more, especially given that they had apparently buried the hatchet.

I wouldn't read so much into someone being soft-spoken and a bit apologetic.


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Apr 29, 2013
On Waimea, 5.10d

blah, edited.


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By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 29, 2013
Aiding.

builttospill wrote:
I wouldn't read so much into someone being soft-spoken and a bit apologetic.


Oh, I could certainly be wrong, just going with a hunch there. Not trying to say Steck et al were bastards or anything. Maybe they indeed did nothing wrong at all, and they just greatly respect the Sherpas: it is their backyard, after all.

But my first reaction when reading how apologetic they were to the Sherpas made me think they were feeling a bit sheepish.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 29, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

sounds to me like the sherpas got buttsore, over people climbing better than them.

Then again, steck and moro ere only using the lhotse face as an acclimation climb, it wasnt part of their itnended route, so they easily could have been elsewhere and not getting in the way of sherpas fixing lines.

Seems like both parties are prob at fault, though steck and moro continued climbing and left, the sherpas accosted them after they caught up to them.

No matter the reason for the incident theres no reason to turn to violence, on the mountain.

Everyone involved should pretty much be ashamed of themselves.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 29, 2013
modern man

Ross Henry wrote:
Considering we know nothing about the sherpas, and we know a considerably a lot about the Europeans, we know that the Europeans are known well for there etiquette in the mountains.


whaaaaaaaaat planet were you born on brah? NYC climbers are the most courteous climbers in the world, after that its the French, then the gym climbers. Spain takes fourth place.

I'm tossing my prayer flags in the trash now.


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 29, 2013

Timothy.Klein wrote:
In what I read the white guys went out of their way to not really trash-talk the Sherpas much, even though they were (allegedly) threatening a mob beat down. You know what that tells me? These guys knew they were at least partially in the wrong, or they are ego-less saints (the latter seems rather unlikely for world-class climbers). If you think you did right, you don't apologize for the guy who tried to beat you up. But we weren't there, and we will most likely NEVER hear both sides of this story, so we'll never know,


Have you watched or heard much from Uli or Simone? Those dudes are stupid humble and just want to climb. Why would they have reason to "trash-talk" someone? That would only make the situation worse and even if they did %100 nothing wrong it would just exasperate the problem. People with egos trash talk.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 29, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Well it made World News Tonight on ABC tonight with Dianne Sawyer, saying a hundred sherpas attacked the three climbers and beat them, even taking out knives against them.


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 29, 2013

Hate when main stream news gets their hands on climbing stories like this...


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 30, 2013
Cleo's Needle

At least the Sherpas didn't rape them.


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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 30, 2013

txclimber wrote:
From what I've read, Hell yes they deserved it. The Sherpas were putting up fixed lines, which I'm sure each of those chumps have used dozens of times. They asked the Stecks' crew to wait until they had this tasked completed. They told the Sherpas to f-off and went around and above them on a new unclimbed route. During this selfish move they were kicking ice and snow on the sherpas and everyone below them, risking avalanche and killing everyone beneath them. I would have taken them to task as well.

The Sherpas were fixing ropes for a completely separate expedition. Ueli, Simone and Jon were climbing 50 meters to the side of the Sherpas. They were prepping for a new route but had not started it yet. Do you even attempt to think past the "hurr my white guilt says it must be the euros fault"? Ever once consider just how improbable it is for climbers 50 meters (!) to the side to knock ice or snow onto another party? Do you seriously expect 3 free solo climbers who are part of a completely unrelated expedition (who did NOT use the fixed ropes, contrary to your assertion) to wait hours to access their camp, set up without any assistance from said Sherpas? They did their absolute best to avoid interfering with the Sherpas' rope-fixing activities, only briefly crossing them (without their own ropes to tangle, so next to no potential issues) in order to access their camp. Ueli even went so far as to fix another 260meters of rope for the Sherpas after they descended, even though he would not be using them, purely out of respect for the Sherpas even though they had already had a verbal altercation over what amounts to nothing.

Get your head out of your ass and think just a tiny bit before you post.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 30, 2013
modern man

dang the Sherpas, all 100 of them, must have been feeling GANGSTA that day huh? I love how people like to paint angel halos over their climbing heroes. next we will hear they were showering the Sherpas with money, help and candy all while 200M away...

what is the old phrase about powder days?

I got another saying- when in Rome dont piss on the street


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 30, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

A coworker of mine is on Everest right now and with luck will come back with whatever rumors are floating around there. This will be interesting.


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Apr 30, 2013
Thanks Hank Caylor!

www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/stories/drama-at-21000-feet-cha>>>


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By builttospill
Apr 30, 2013

Buff Johnson wrote:
I wouldn't mind staying behind to get paid for rescues, either. Shit, where's my agent? I need a book deal.


You mean the rescues they provide for free to the sherpas? Pretty sure he's not getting rich flying sick Nepalese out of their villages and rescuing trekkers. But what do I know?


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By Paul-B
May 1, 2013
Flakes of Wrath

Seems the fairest account I have heard.

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/04/30/everest-2013-the-sherpas>>>


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By RobC2
May 1, 2013
This..

"Nepal is one of the world’s poorest nations, with 31 per cent of its 28 million- population living below the poverty line. Chronic food insecurity and hunger are part of daily life for millions of Nepalis. For families living in Nepal’s remote mountain regions in particular, getting access to sufficient food is a daily struggle. Climate change is making the situation worse."

Excerpt from Oxfam Case Study read it here:

www.oxfam.org/sites/www.oxfam.org/files/cs-improving-food-se>>>


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 1, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

At present I'm going to give the sherpas the big thumbs down based on the accounts I read. There was absolutely no reason to throw rocks at anyone, which they clearly did.


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