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Ueli Steck and Simone Moro attacked by sherpas on Everest
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Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-2233...

"The climbers believe that the lead Sherpa felt that his pride had been damaged as the climbers were moving unroped and much faster,"
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
And Jon Griffith, who is the man Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
Old Man gap highline!
inb4 Everest debate rises from the dead. James Xu
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Joined Jan 10, 2012
56 points
Apr 29, 2013
the man was smart
putting a group of people in harms way deserves a good beating.

news.sky.com/story/1084165/mou...
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,056 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Are you saying they deserved it? From what I can tell they didn't put anyone in harms way by soloing next to a sherpa fixing a rope...

If anything they were lessening the bottleneck at these fixed ropes by blasting on ahead, making the entire situation less dangerous. Methinks the sherpa didn't like looking like an amateur next to people from Switzerland, Italy, and Britain.
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Administrator
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.
The article, at least in the smartphone version, didn't mention the south col (trade route) route. Are you sure they were on the "standard" route that is notorious for getting backed up? I'm just curious. The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
I'm not sure...one article suggested they were trying a new route, so I have no idea. Maybe someone with some Everest experience or knowledge of the sherpas can chime in Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
From what I've read, Hell yes they deserved it. The Sherpas were putting up fixed lines, which I'm sure each of those chumps have used dozens of times. They asked the Stecks' crew to wait until they had this tasked completed. They told the Sherpas to f-off and went around and above them on a new unclimbed route. During this selfish move they were kicking ice and snow on the sherpas and everyone below them, risking avalanche and killing everyone beneath them. I would have taken them to task as well. txclimber
Joined Apr 29, 2013
10 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
thebmc.co.uk/into-the-death-th...

Written by Ed Douglas

I don't buy the whole "they risked everyone's lives" argument. Most of the people going up Everest are in the congo-line anyway, above, below, in between groups of hundreds. I doubt 3 of the best climbers in the world were recklessly knocking ice down on the guided groups and sherpas...I feel that they are probably pretty respectful
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
Ben Brotelho wrote:
thebmc.co.uk/into-the-death-th... Written by Ed Douglas I don't buy the whole "they risked everyone's lives" argument. Most of the people going up Everest are in the congo-line anyway, above, below, in between groups of hundreds. I doubt 3 of the best climbers in the world were recklessly knocking ice down on the guided groups and sherpas...I feel that they are probably pretty respectful


Then also consider that the Sherpas are certainly aware of how they earn their income and I doubt that someone leading a team of them to fix lines would risk their livlihood and the wellbeing of their family lightly. When's the last time you organized a mob to lynch somebody because your pride got hurt? There's got to be two sides to this story almost certainly.
Wannabe
Joined Nov 22, 2010
144 points
Apr 29, 2013
the man was smart
txclimber wrote:
From what I've read, Hell yes they deserved it. The Sherpas were putting up fixed lines, which I'm sure each of those chumps have used dozens of times. They asked the Stecks' crew to wait until they had this tasked completed. They told the Sherpas to f-off and went around and above them on a new unclimbed route. During this selfish move they were kicking ice and snow on the sherpas and everyone below them, risking avalanche and killing everyone beneath them. I would have taken them to task as well.


It takes quite a bit to get an average Buddhist involved in a beat down. I can only imagine the real story here.

Who would you equate HUGE egos with, rich white dudes or Buddhist Sherpas?
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,056 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Wannabe wrote:
Then also consider that the Sherpas are certainly aware of how they earn their income and I doubt that someone leading a team of them to fix lines would risk their livlihood and the wellbeing of their family lightly. When's the last time you organized a mob to lynch somebody because your pride got hurt? There's got to be two sides to this story almost certainly.


The other night at the bar someone called me ugly so I got a nice little lynch mob together to beat them up. Just kidding.

I'm sure there is another side of the story, unfortunately I don't think many of the sherpas are on the interwebs very much, so we may not hear it, at least directly.
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
Ben Brotelho wrote:
thebmc.co.uk/into-the-death-th... Written by Ed Douglas I don't buy the whole "they risked everyone's lives" argument. Most of the people going up Everest are in the congo-line anyway, above, below, in between groups of hundreds. I doubt 3 of the best climbers in the world were recklessly knocking ice down on the guided groups and sherpas...I feel that they are probably pretty respectful



This assumes they were on the same well traveled "congo-line" every article I've read states they were attempting a new, unclimbed route. Every new route I've ever been on has loose rock/snow/ice and unforeseen, unpredictable dangers. You must consider the whole picture not just that which supports your argument.
txclimber
Joined Apr 29, 2013
10 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Fall Guy wrote:
It takes quite a bit to get an average Buddhist involved in a beat down. I can only imagine the real story here. Who would you equate HUGE egos with, rich white dudes or Buddhist Sherpas?



Never met a Buddhist Sherpa, so I have no idea. Just being from a typically Buddhist population or group of people, or even professing to follow that religion doesn't mean you actually adhere to the tenets of said religion. Just look at the Westboro Baptist Church
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
me in seneca
Considering we know nothing about the sherpas, and we know a considerably a lot about the Europeans, we know that the Europeans are known well for there etiquette in the mountains. the articles even say, that Ueli attempted to help them with there line fixing.

I have been passed both in the mountains and rock climbing, people have gone under my ropes or over. I dont think that they deserve to die because they did this.
Ross Henry
Joined Jan 25, 2012
65 points
Apr 29, 2013
I eat crack for breakfast.
Ueli Steck is at it again, pioneering a new brand of alpinism fitting for the 21st century. Known for his dramatic fast and light free-solo of the Eiger's north face, and more recently for combining paragliding with mountaineering to make for YOLO descents of challenging peaks, Ueli is now pushing the limit of 21st century athletics by combining mountaineering with battle-royale cage fighting... on Everest. Alex Washburne
Joined Apr 29, 2010
74 points
Apr 29, 2013
mexico
I wonder if they were mistaken for the Wolfroms? Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
991 points
Administrator
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.
Usually there is a cohesion (from all the accounts/books I've read, never from working with sherpas) between the climbers proper and the sherpas.

Hopefully this isn't a sign of a negative turn in the relationship between climber and sherpa.
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Apr 29, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
I don't know what happened, but I do know that we'll almost certainly have a bunch of internet armchair climbers who have never left their country, met a Sherpa, or climbed above 6000m (let alone 8000m)tell us all about what happened and/or let us know lame it is to "walk up" Everest anyway! csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Apr 29, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
csproul wrote:
I don't know what happened, but I do know that we'll almost certainly have a bunch of internet armchair climbers who have never left their country, met a Sherpa, or climbed above 6000m (let alone 8000m)tell us all about what happened and/or let us know lame it is to "walk up" Everest anyway!


I am writing this from the comfort of a wheeled library chair, but the other allegations are correct. I hope someone with some more knowledge of the culture up there can say some words and clear the air.
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 29, 2013
mexico
Aww csproul, if everyone around here was just, fair, and correct in their assessment of the world this place would be boring. I like reading the dissenting arguments and trolls even if I disagree. Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
991 points
Apr 29, 2013
I'm fairly certain that this event is related to the boots being stolen from Neptune.. Alphonse
From Winter Park
Joined Jul 20, 2010
0 points
Apr 29, 2013
Haha, "Did you happen to see what kind of boot he was stomping your ass with?" Jeff Kent
From Sedona, Az
Joined Oct 10, 2012
5 points
Apr 29, 2013
Colonel Mustard
csproul wrote:
I don't know what happened, but I do know that we'll almost certainly have a bunch of internet armchair climbers who have never left their country, met a Sherpa, or climbed above 6000m (let alone 8000m)tell us all about what happened and/or let us know lame it is to "walk up" Everest anyway!


It sounds like getting your ass kicked is a more salient qualifier.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,381 points
Apr 29, 2013
I wonder how many of you trash talkers know that Ueli Steck once ascended from base camp to Camp 4 of Annapurna in dangerous conditions to attempt a rescue.

alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswi...
David Barbour
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
231 points
Apr 29, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Ben Brotelho wrote:
thebmc.co.uk/into-the-death-th... Written by Ed Douglas I don't buy the whole "they risked everyone's lives" argument. Most of the people going up Everest are in the congo-line anyway, above, below, in between groups of hundreds. I doubt 3 of the best climbers in the world were recklessly knocking ice down on the guided groups and sherpas...I feel that they are probably pretty respectful


In this case, there was no "congo line." The fixed ropes were not there yet, but the R&I article does state that the crew fixing the lines was made up of 17 sherpas, which is quite a lot I'd think.

I think it wouldn't be uncommon for unkind words and punches to be thrown over something like this, but a mob of 100 sherpas? (R&I article)

From what information we have so far, it seems like Steck and Moro were considerate, but kept their own goals in mind. They shouldn't be held back on account of commercial expeditions.
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
310 points


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