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Uberschmidt 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: probably Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 1,704
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 12, 2005
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Description 

Uberschmidt is the route immediately left of Tarantula and can be identified by a large roof one third of the way up. The climb breaches the center of the roof.

Though intimidating from the ground, Uberschmidt climbs very well, as a bouldery, cut-your-feet sequence sees you over the roof. The climbing on the upper face eases considerably. Note: While pulling the roof, the right wall is definitely off. Using it makes this climb about 5.11.

Much easier and more enjoyable (in my opinion) than the nightmare slab of Sepsen Wall, Uberschmidt deserves more traffic.


Protection 

Toprope problem.



Photos of Uberschmidt Slideshow Add Photo
Uberschmidt climbs the prominent roof in this pic to the left of the rope. The right wall is off.
BETA PHOTO: Uberschmidt climbs the prominent roof in this pic ...
The crux!
The crux!
Comments on Uberschmidt Add Comment
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By rich bechler
Dec 30, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This is a great lead. A hand placed long dong at the lip.Be care ful at the top out.Walk to the top and clean the dirt and pine needles of the ledge.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 5, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

You know...I agree with Rich. This climb is probably 5.11c, not 12a. The book gives it 12b, but that is way off. I felt that this climb was much easier than many other 12a's in the area.

A long dong? Wouldn't a cam work better?

By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 27, 2007

I tried this thing several times yesterday. Maybe I was missing something, but I thought the roof sequence was much harder than anything on P.O. Wall. I never was able to stand up over the roof...

By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
May 4, 2009

I tried this route a few years ago and was shut out of the top -- which it seems is not the hard part. I must have missed a foothold, or my shoes sucked. The next year i saw two locals run up it like it was a day hike. The bottom is really enjoyable. Just a playground of sweet bouldering action! I won't venture a guess at the rating till I try the upper part again with better shoes and glasses.

By Tradoholic
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

5.9ish climbing, except for pulling that damn roof! I couldn't find the foot I needed, am I too tall? If it's 11c, I'm missing something.

By Tradoholic
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

Yea, I see how you guys could call this 11c. I think that a person who boulders V5 or higher or climbs harder 12's and 13's or 14's (Famous "Winsonsinite" Jay Knower) would find the one hard move on this easy but 12's being around my limit I think it would be fair to call it 12a.
Lets compromise at 11d.
A #000 C3 gives decent protection to the crux and there are good placements above albeit in suspect rock with a solid run-out to the top.
Long live trad climbing.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 19, 2011

What the hell is a Winsonite?

By Tradoholic
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

Obviously you're not one Andy ;)