|The Main Wall
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U4 is an intimidating route that requires wide stemming, laybacking and jamming to get to the top. Placing gear can be difficult because your usually in a layback or wide stem when doing it and its hard to see the placements. Don't let this discourage you though the climbing is never that difficult and the route is fantastic. Shorter climbers may find the route more difficult, I'm 6' tall with a 0 ape index and felt 11- was about right.
This route is located approximately 100 to 150 feet to the left of JR Tolken. Look for two cracks that are about 5 feet apart. The right crack is in a large left facing corner and the left crack is in a very small (about half a foot) right facing corner.
This route mostly takes .5 to 1 Camalot sizes with a few smaller cams and wires. I think a gold Camalot fits somewhere but can't remember for sure. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top.
|By Gavin Ferguson|
From: Portland, OR
Sep 9, 2009
FA: Brooke Sandahl mid 80's
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Mar 11, 2010
U4 is visible in the photo of Fun Soup. It's two stem-boxes to the right of Fun Soup or the right most set of cracks in the photo.
For what it's worth, I had no trouble seeing my cams the two times I climbed this route, but, being shorter, I lie-backed the whole thing. (they'd be harder to see if you're stemming)
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Jun 2, 2013
Killer line! Great pro! Easily possible to just climb the right crack straight on. Relatively easy for the 11- grade compared to say California Weakender...