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Checking out the funky middle section of "U2R...
U2RNXS is called the "longest and strangest climb in the Rock Garden" in D'Antonio's book. I'm not sure it's strange, but it is long for a Penitente climb. It does have a variety of different moves on some cool rock though.
To find it, head right from where the Rock Garden access trail ends. The climb is on the left near the mouth of the canyon.
The start has a balancy traverse left, then head up using a system of huge huecos past several clips. The crux comes at you two bolts before the anchor - a crimpy section through a bulge.
 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
By William Mondragon
May 23, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
8 bolts. Sweet route.