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U-Mound

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Backside of Upper Mound/ Wounded Knee area (Northern cluster of boulders) 
Brett and Jill boulders 
Lower Mound (western cluster of boulders) 
Upper Mound (main upper cluster of boulders) 
Upper Mound - the corridor 
Warmup Boulders (AKA Brett & Jill boulders) South Side 

U-Mound  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.0847, -106.481 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 65,009
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Wachter on Jan 24, 2006
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Overview of boulder clusters. See separate section...

Description 

Surprisingly good granite bouldering in the foothills of the Sandia Mountains, right at the edge of town. Also Albuquerque's best approximation of an "after work crag," at least from late fall to early spring (when it's warmer, Big Block takes that dubious honor). So, when the days get longer, and the latest dusting of snow melts off, get out and shred your fingers at U-Mound! The granite here can be quite rough, but once you know where the more finger-friendly problems are, and have an idea exactly how to grab specific holds, you can manage to keep from wearing through your pads and still get a good crimp-pump.

Resources 

- "The Official Online Guide to U-Mound Bouldering": cs.unm.edu/~moret/u-mound.html
It's in a convenient, printable html format, but if you're going to print this out and use it at the boulders, I'd recommend annotating it with info from this site.

Getting There 

Go east on I-40 from basically anywhere in town. Get off at Tramway (last exit before you head up the canyon) and go north until you reach Copper (second light). Turn right on Copper (east toward the mountains), and drive until you arrive at the end of the road, there is a parking area here. Hike north on a trail for ~ 200 yards, keeping the houses to your left and the U-mound (big rocky-topped hill) to your right. Cross a berm with a concrete drainage ditch to your left, and the boulders come into view straight ahead.
See photos for details.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',16],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for U-Mound:
Manatee trad traverse   V0+ 4+     Boulder   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
Layback arete   V1 5     Boulder   Warmup Boulders (AKA Brett ...
Dead Cat   V1 5     Boulder, 15'   Lower Mound (western cluste...
Highball slab problem   V2 5+     Boulder   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
Jelly Bean hand traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
Pizza Crack   V2 5+     Boulder   Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo...
Wounded Knee   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo...
Balancing boulder problem   V3 6A     Boulder   Lower Mound (western cluste...
Knob Problem   V3 6A     Boulder   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
The Murray Highball   V4 6B     Boulder, 18'   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
Driftwood or Petrified Wood   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo...
The OW   V4 6B     Boulder   Upper Mound - the corridor
The Manatee   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 18'   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
Whale Belly   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   Upper Mound - the corridor
Foot Switch sit start   V6 7A     Boulder   Brett and Jill boulders
Driftwood direct start   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo...
Corridor Problem   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Upper Mound - the corridor
Hung Like John   V8 7B     Boulder, 12'   Lower Mound (western cluste...
Arete to Crack   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Upper Mound (main upper clu...
Hito   V10-11 8A     Boulder, 15'   Upper Mound - the corridor
Browse More Classics in U-Mound

Featured Route For U-Mound
Kevin Jaramillo launching into scary territory on ...

The Manatee V4-5 6B+  NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : Upper Mound (main upper clu...
One of the taller lines at U-mound, though this would still barely qualify as a highball in many areas. Technical and insecure climbing to go along with a strong reputation still make this a desired tick. There used to be an unstable plate about the size of a kitchen table that rocked back and forth in the landing area that has since migrated down the hill and settled.Work up into the big underclings then ooze your way out to where you can grab the good hold over the lip with your left. Match br...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of U-Mound Slideshow Add Photo
Umound approach from the parking lot at the end of...
Umound approach from the parking lot at the end of...
Feis on the U Mound, p. 2.
Feis on the U Mound, p. 2.
View of boulders from the trail in, just above the...
BETA PHOTO: View of boulders from the trail in, just above the...
Humorous piece written for the NM Climber (Spring ...
Humorous piece written for the NM Climber (Spring ...
U-mound bouldering. Looking East
U-mound bouldering. Looking East
Feis on the U Mound, p. 3.
Feis on the U Mound, p. 3.

Comments on U-Mound Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2012
By Dave Wachter
Feb 26, 2008
As noted above, there has been an "official" online site for the U-mound for years ( cs.unm.edu/~moret/u-mound.html ), and it's been the only source of info available for those curious about the area. However, the maps and descriptions are sketchy, grades are inaccurate and often do not reflect first-hand experience, and many of the best problems are left out. The info available here should provide a good, and hopefully more reliable, supplement to that guide.
I'm only submitting problems I've done, and trying to include photo illustrations wherever possible. Please add problems! Photos, too. If you don't have a camera, I'll try to get out and snap a pic of the rock for illustrative purposes.
While this section is by no means complete as an area description, it should at least get you through a very enjoyable day at the boulders. I've included many of the best moderates, particularly those which are relatively skin-friendly, and a few harder problems. I'll add more as I get the time - or be my guest and add some yourself. There are plenty of problems not included here, on both ends of the difficulty spectrum, so go out and explore. But beware - there are a lot of sharp holds just waiting to tear your flesh!
Also beware that as the weather heats up, the rock gets slick, especially in the full sun. Feet and fingertips can pop off without warning, and the dark, smooth blobs that sometimes seem to offer a good way off the ground can become treacherous (knee bangers). Also, bugs can be bad in the warmer months, especially in the evening when temps are more tolerable. Better to head up to Big Block or pack the car (cooler, family, dog, etc.) for a trip to one of the many good bouldering areas further north in that case.
I've tried to give fair ratings here, and when possible I defer to consensus of the local boulderering community. So please write in with comments if you think grades are off. My intent was not to give exact ratings for every problem, particularly given the unusual nature of the climbing for many folks in this area, but rather to try to give a consistent, ballpark sense of difficulty. While many of the grades have been softened in comparison with those on the "official" U-mound bouldering web site, they may still seem stiff if you're not used to granite crimping and pebble-pulling (gym rats take note), particularly at the low end of the spectrum.
By The Piker
From: colo. springs
Feb 26, 2009
FYI these boulders were popular w/Alb.locals during the 70's.Mainly Gerry Feis and Bob Stauch.
By Dave Wachter
Feb 27, 2009
Thanks for adding routes and correcting names, Lee. I'll try to keep up with changes on the topos, etc.
By the way (anybody), there are a few areas that could use some route descriptions - eg, the north side of the Lower Mound and the cluster of boulders south of the warmup (Jack & Jill) boulders - I think they're called "slabs" and the "Andy's 'Mom likes it' boulder."
By Erick "Turtle" Robinson
From: albuquerque,new mexico
Mar 9, 2009
Just a quick note. The warm up boulder is actually Brett and Jill. Back in the day someone spray painted it across the traverse. It made the left side really slick. I also made the map (110+ problems) for the Shredfest bouldering comp which my friend John Marino and I started 6 years ago. I have copies at REI if anyone is interested.
By sesser125
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 11, 2009
Dave and friends,

Thanks for the tour of the area and adding these pics and descriptions. This place needs to get some publicity, there are some really good problems here. Definitely worth a stop if your in Albuquerque.
S.
By Dave Wachter
Mar 13, 2009
Glad to hear props from the discerning CO community, sesser125. Let me know if you're headed down again, and we'll give you a more extensive tour. Hope you don't mind having your photos posted.
Interesting to hear your opinion that the area could use publicity; I tend to agree. If this area were in CO or a more populated part of CA, I'd want to keep it secret, but here in ABQ, I've yet to experience problems with crowds. Or run into obnoxious climbers that make the experience unpleasant.
By Orlando
Dec 8, 2010
Hey all.
'Tis the season...for foothills bouldering! The rock is sticky, the bugs are gone and sending temps are plentiful.
But on that note, I was up at U-Mound yesterday evening and the rock looked like a friggen star-gazers map; almost every hold and discernible crystal on the more popular problems (read: most-visible problems) had a mondo blob of chalk on it. If you feel the need to tick your holds, especially if it's to put a mega-tick on anything and everything that even resembles a hold, that's cool, we've all done it, but PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE try to remember to brush them off when you're done. Not only is it courteous to other climbers who like to look for their holds, but it also lessens our visual impact on the rock to the rest of the non-climbing community and frankly, some of the problems up there had some serious "visual impact".
And while you're at it; PLEASE PICK UP YOUR TAPE!!! I mean, really people, how hard is it to put your skanky, used tape in your pocket? It's very simple; as you're removing it, don't let go of it until it is in your pocket, pack, chalk bag, whatever. And before you leave, look around and make sure that said tape is still in your pocket, pack, chalk bag, whatever. Easy as V0 and you'll make your momma proud.
So sorry for the rant - let me know if I'm outta line and I'll kill this comment.
Cheers and hope you all have a great season.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 8, 2010
Thanks for the comment Orlando.

If you jackasses (you know who you are) need to tick every 5.5 frigging foothold (FOR THE LOVE OF GOD) @ Umound...maybe you should go back to the gym and brush up on your footwork before you come outside and make a mess.

You Mom is not going to clean up after your lazy ass and to tell you the truth...the rest of us are pretty tired of doing it.

Clean up your shit people. It takes 2 seconds to brush the chalk off.


Jeremy Aslaksen
Albuquerque, NM
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 21, 2011
All,

I was up at U-Mound yesterday to enjoy the sweet conditions.
Unfortunately some FUCKTARDS decided to tick EVERYTHING...after I spent much time cleaning THEIR MESS...I found this...

YOU SUCK.
YOU SUCK.


I hope to meet you soon.

To everyone else, please help educate these trolls on proper bouldering etiquette.

CLEAN UP YOUR SHIT LADIES.

Sincerely,

Jeremy Aslaksen
By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 25, 2011
The overview pics are helpful, but a visiting climber would really benefit from a simple topo, if nothing marking each boulder.
By Dave Wachter
Feb 7, 2012
  • **BAD NEWS**:
It seems that somebody's been destroying problems at U-mound lately. We found two last week that we think were purposely mangled:
1) West arete of the Brett & Jill boulders (V1 - best warm up at U-mound) - The finishing jug was apparently smashed off with a big rock we found lying at the base. The rock was compact/ smooth and light-colored, clearly out of place next to the grey featured granite of the boulders themselves. We cleaned the problem up as best we could, but what's left is suspiciously crumbly and there's a crack behind the remnants of the jug so the whole thing might come off if you yard on it. It would suck to come off unexpectedly at that point.
2) The corridor problem - A good left hand crimp about 10 feet off the ground has broken and now there's a relatively sharp pinch instead. I suspect somebody smashed that with a rock as well, as it didn't seem like the type of hold that would come off by simply pulling on it. I may be wrong; it's possible that some innocent burly climber may have broken the hold by pulling really hard or standing on it. If that's the case I'd like to know, because a single act of defacement is a lot less concerning than a pattern of such behavior.
By the way, both of these holds were high off the ground but were reachable by standing on adjacent boulders.
We also found a scattering of human excrement and wads of used toilet paper at the base of the corridor problem.
I'm particularly bummed about this because it seems that the U-mound has been seeing a resurgence of climbing lately. The folks we've met out there have been mostly young, enthusiastic, and psyched to try to figure out how to slap and scratch their way up technical granite. Also nice to see some new problems going up, particularly in the V7/8 range, which has not been well represented.
If you see any suspicious behavior please post it here. I can't recommend confronting anyone but at least making it clear that you're watching could put the kabosh on delinquent acts and save a route from destruction.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Feb 7, 2012
Bummer to hear about folks destroying holds.

Dave, where are these new V7s and V8s being put up at U-Mound?
By Dave Wachter
Feb 8, 2012
Claude has posted a few on this site. Guess I'm not sure they're actually new problems, but I hadn't known about them before. I've also been seeing chalk on some holds that weren't chalked before in other places, such as on the southeast corner of the Brett and Jill boulders and on the north facing aspect of some of the clusters. Not a new mother lode of problems, and maybe I'm off on the grades of some things that aren't posted. Still, it seems like there's more stuff chalked recently than there's been, and some of it seems reasonably hard.
By Eric Whitbeck
Feb 8, 2012
The U mound takes a beating again. This is another good reason to explore the other areas in the foothills. Far less likely to see this stuff at Simms, Fat City or the Gun. Those areas have better problems as well.
By claude.
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 8, 2012
Dave, I think you're right about the recent additions not really being "new," since it'd be safe to say the vast majority of obvious lines have already been climbed. U-Mound is also full of contrivances, variations, traverse add-ons and what not, that there's always something "new" at least to me any way. I figure people might like to hear about the fun ones.

I think there are still some hard problems/variations that may/may not have not been done already, although most I'd classify as fun rather than must-do-classics.

Like Eric says, there's A TON of great stuff at other areas as well. Check them out if you haven't already.
By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 23, 2012
Sounds like Gabe & Debbie have been at it again ...
By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 24, 2012
More early U-Mound bouldering ...