Follow a low angle left facing corner through a ackward wide section. The last 30ft of the climb has an enjoyable lieback section.
Walk off to the left on 4th class ledges...
The first LF coner to the right of the Regular Route
SR, extra finger sized gear
Sep 24, 2010
feels a little insecure half way up left facing corner. maybe not the best first lead for someone.
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 27, 2010
I agree with splitclimber. I also found half way up surprisingly insecure for a 5.5. Getting around the left facing bulge was challenging.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jul 17, 2011
I found the corner secure enough. For me, getting around the bulge at the start gave me problems for a 5.5 climb. You can continue up into the chimney above (maybe a 5.8 move getting into the chimney then 5.0 after that) to summit Middle Spire.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun climb, sustained and well protected, but much harder than Knapsack Crack 5.5 and harder than Deception 5.6 at Lover's Leap. Felt like 5.7 to me.