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The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
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Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
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First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
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Now and Zen 
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P.S. I'm Blonde 
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Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
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Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
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Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Tyrolean Traverse 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I British: M 1c PG13

   
Type: TR, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I British: M 1c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,220
Submitted By: Cody Munger on Apr 10, 2009
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View of the second pinnacle from the anchor on the...

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  • Description 

    You can string a rope between the first and second pinnacles to make a fairly exposed tyrolean traverse. The two giant, flatiron's style eyebolts at the top of the pinnacles make for some bomber anchors. The crux is in getting the rope across the gap without the rope snagging on something. I found it's easiest to climb the downclimb routes for both.


    Location 

    Approach via the west side of the second pinnacle. I anchored the second pinnacle first via the downclimb and dragged the rope around and up the first pinnacle downclimb. You may want to bring jumars if doing manly upside down hand over hand is too hard, and you don't want to get stuck in the middle of the rope.


    Protection 

    You can protect the two downclimbs, but you'd need a second rope for that. Why bother? Use the gigantic eyebolts located at the top of the pinnacles for bomber anchors. Alternately, sling or tie the rope around the huge knob that is directly in line between the two bolts.



    Photos of Tyrolean Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
    John getting psyched for the traverse. (Prussik used to aid in traversing the 'uphill' side of the lines.)
    John getting psyched for the traverse. (Prussik us...
    John airing it out mid traverse. Ropes used were two 8.3mm canyon lines.
    John airing it out mid traverse. Ropes used were t...
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