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Tyrolean Traverse in Boulder Canyon
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By Tev
May 12, 2014

We will be in Denver for a convention in July. We will be coming in earlier and leaving later so we can have the chance to climb. Since most of the shaded climbs in Boulder Canyon appear to be on the North facing walls, looks like we will have to Tyrolean traverse to get across the river. We've never done it and were wondering what implements would be needed. Do we need Pulleys? Or would carabiners suffice? Any reasonable resources you guys know of online?
Thanks for your time.
Cheers,
Tev and Jen


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By BoulderCharles
May 12, 2014

I always use a regular 'biner and a PAS (or runner) to cross. If you have a pulley it will be easier but, generally, just connecting with a 'biner will work. Be sure to keep your PAS connection short (the farther from the rope you are, the harder it is to pull yourself across) but not too short (which will make it hard to get off the rope).

Some of the traverses are awkward because they need to be placed higher up so you may want to bring long slings to give you the ability to stand up in something or to use the slings to pull your backpack behind you (connecting the backpack with a 'biner and connecting that biner to your harness to pull it across).


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By tanner jones
May 12, 2014

www.climbing.com/skill/how-to-do-the-tyrolean-traverse/


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By Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
May 12, 2014
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect rock at a nice relaxed angle!

A quickdraw (or two) will work just fine. All the tyros are short, less than 25', with the hardest part being actually getting yourself on and off the line.

A few don'ts...

Don't try to clip in with a sling or anything longer than a standard quickdraw unless you want to wear out your arms and entertain those around you.

Don't wear your backpack across if you're carrying any significant weight. Attach it to the line with its own biner, wrap your legs around it and pull it across behind you.

Enjoy!


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By Tev
May 12, 2014

Thanks guys!


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By Cor
May 12, 2014
black nasty

Hey Tev,

There are many tyrols. in the canyon. They also get replaced as necessary (for the most part..)

I see people to it many ways, but I feel the best is clip through both ropes( usually two ) with one
single locker through your belay loop. This helps keep you high up, or close to the rope, making it easier to pull / slide yourself across. I sometimes wear my pack on my back, but if it is heavy or I don't feel like dealing with it… Clip it in (both lines again) with a locker, and have a shoulder sling connect it to you.
(You in the front, pack in the back for the direction you are traveling.)

I see a bunch of people using draws, etc… but these just lower you down from the ropes, thus making your arms work harder, and your pulls (horizontally) shorter.

The only possible down side to clipping in short is getting on and off. But IMHO it is way easier to deal with that, then struggling across!

Hope that helps, have fun in the shade! It's hot on the other side at that time of year.

Cory


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By Victor K
From Denver, CO
May 12, 2014
Water!

Don't wear your pack for your first Tyrolean. Plus, if you drag it on a sling, you can lock your legs over the top of the pack and save your back (only do this if the top grip on the pack is strong).


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By dan zika
From jax wy
May 13, 2014
tower fever <br />

Thanks For the video.I will try useing my whole body. Couldnt figure why tyrols were crushing me so bad.
You can teach an old dog better tricks!!!


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 13, 2014
Bocan

Just on a specific note, if you go to the cascade crag I use two runners. One normal length, the second about 1.5 length. The reasoning is that on this particular tyro you have to walk across a dead, but solid branch to reach the tree rope ladder. I unclip the first single length, and the 1.5 length allows me to stay clipped in all the way to the ladder.

There used to be a platform, but now you just walk on the branch. I'd rather be clipped in.


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By George Bracksieck
May 13, 2014

I would first connect a PAS or shoulder-length sling from your harness to both ropes, using a single HMS locker. This will give you a backup for the possibly awkward, strenuous, and exposed effort of connecting your harness belay loop directly to both ropes, using a locker or a double pulley. I recently fell ten feet onto sharp rocks when I attached my pulley incorrectly and it exploded off of the ropes. A simple backup would've saved my ass — or hip, which ended up taking the impact.


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