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Tyrannosaurus Rex 

Tyrannosaurus Rex 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rex Pieper and Doug Benner, Dec. 1988
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 8, 2006
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Description 

A short face climb, with a strenuous crux start and some balance moves along a dike higher up. Shady location


Location 

a wide dike on the northeast face


Protection 

two bolts



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By Rex Pieper
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Went by there a year or so ago and noticed the opening move is harder now since a large feature broke off. I bouldered it out and it still goes, but now it's more like .10b.

Previous comment indicated balance moves higher up on dike...I don't remember those. I recall using the dike for handholds above the 2nd bolt and frictioning on the blank face.

Top anchors are #1 Camalot size if I remember right.

Added trivia for those who care about these things: This was the first route I bolted at Josh.