|Original: ||Mod. Snow [details]|
|Season: ||Spring and summer are best, but really any time of the year.|
|Page Views: ||2,120|
|Submitted By: ||Kurt Johnson on Sep 14, 2007|
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Matt Gates climbing Tyndall Gully.
Tyndall Gully is the prominent couloir located between the summit of Hallett and Tyndall Glacier. (I've never actually heard it refered to by a name or seen anything written about it, so I don't know if it has an official name, so I'm calling it Tyndall Gully which seems appropriate. If anyone out there knows if it officially goes by a different name, let me know.) It's essentially an extension of the glacier but is mostly separated by a rib of rock, making it a distinct feature, especially during the summer months where it can been seen clearly from town. It's a fun but relatively short snow climb, given that it's a fairly long approach all the way to the end of Tyndall Gorge. Knowing that you can see it from just about anywhere in Estes gives it that "I've been there" factor which makes the long slog to the base worthwhile.
I soloed the route July 21, 2007 and the snow was soft, making for a straightforward ascent. The angle is for the most part moderate, but steepens near the top. Later in the season I imagine it would make for a fun alpine ice climb.
From the top of the couloir it's about a 15 minute walk to the summit.
From the Bear Lake trailhead, take the trail to Emerald Lake. When you get to the shore of Emerald, look left for signs of the climber's trail and follow it up and right, above and around the lake until you get to the base of the massive rock buttresses where all of the classic rock routes are. From here, continue along the trail at the base of the cliffs and look for a good spot to break away right and head up the gorge a little left of center until you arrive at the base of the route, which will be obvious.
A good solo, but it would protect well with pickets or perhaps even a light rock rack for the sides of the couloir. Later in the season when it turns to alpine ice, bring some screws.
A view of the entire route from the top, Tyndall G...
A poor quality zoomed image of Tyndall Gully as se...
The top of Tyndall Gully, 7-21-2007.
Looking down from the top of Tyndall Gully.
Looking up toward the top of Tyndall Gully.
Self portrait near the top of Tyndall Gully, 7-21-...
Looking down from halfway up Tyndall Gully, 7-21-2...
Looking down from near the top of Tyndall Gully, w...
Looking down from about halfway up Tyndall Gully.
Looking up Tyndall Gully from near the start of th...
Tyndall Gully from the start of the route.
Tyndall Gully and Tyndall Glacier as seen from Fla...
Tyndall Gully and Tyndall Glacier, 7-21-2007.
By Jon E.
Oct 9, 2011
rating: Mod. Snow
Climbed this on Oct. 8th, 2011, the snow was deep at the bottom, RMNP has been getting a fair amount of snow at elevation. It got a little sketchy at points. On one of the exposed sections, I kicked in and a big chunk of snow cut loose below me. Good climb overall though. The approach is annoying due to snow covered rocks, if done anytime in the next month or two I would bring micro spikes for the approach in addition to crampons.
By Larry Bruce
Oct 24, 2011
Jon is spot on with these type of conditions, the most dangerous time of the year to climb lower angle ice routes. Brings back memories in the early '70s when Bob Hirtz and Dave Emerick were ave'd off of Powell Peak in October....