2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Twofers is a neat roof problem. Start on the left side of the gully, below the obvious roof about 35 feet up. Scramble up to the left corner of the roof, layback, reach, and move out through the left corner. Continue up directly above the roof.
Look for the two nice trees, and a 1' wide slot drops the rope perfectly.
When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead, but once you find it, the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (What's with the piton about 2 feet from the top? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear? Huh.
What a great challenge for the Gym climber gone outside. I took a few gym climbers up today and found ourselves (among many others) with a great end of the day climb. The roof could be rated greater than an 8 if you were to heel hook to the right, however, I found it much more enjoyable to navigate the corner with a smooth crawl up the opposing face while grasping the great hold just above the roof. The slab directly above the roof is really thin for slab... just the way we like it. Jeff Burley
By DanMoore Jun 8, 2005 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
I just did this yesterday. Didn't feel quite like 5.8 but still super fun. However, I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.
By Tradsplatter From: Boulder, CO Nov 22, 2006 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
Led this enjoyable route for first time on beautiful fall day, yesterday. This climb did not feel like a 5.8 to me - got stung by a bee as soon as pulled over the roof, so maybe this adds a half grade of difficulty! Roof is a fun little puzzle & easily protectable. There are two nut placements in the crack directly above the roof and at least one hex left and above if you look around for it.
By Mark Cushman From: Cumming, GA Apr 9, 2008 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.
Plenty of pro after you turn the roof, don't hesitate to lead this one. Wasn't even runout at all.
By farkas.time From: Sheffield, SY Aug 14, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Came to this route after 2 or 3 years of absence... can't believe that yellow (#2 BD?) cam is still stuck under the roof. I would have thought some super industrious college student would have gotten that out by now.
Fun route! Had to take my helmet off in order to get my head past the roof.
By jamandbees From: Nederland, Colorado Jul 9, 2013
Mostly straightforward. At the roof, both of us did things a little differently. Instead of reaching left and climbing around, reach straight through the crack in the roof, and feel for the rail on the left hand side. Commit to it, and bring your right hand around for a rail on the right hand side.
By Peter Daniels From: Logan, Utah Jun 2, 2014 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
For the roof move, stemming seems to be key for us short climbers. That wonderful jug to the left is a bit of a reach.