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 ADVANCED
White Pines West
Select Route:
Between a Rock and an Easy Place. S 
Black Hole S 
Naked Truth T 
Stickeen's Way S 
Thunder Dome T 
Two to Tango S 

Two to Tango 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Al Simons
New Route: Yes
Season: any dry day
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: allen simons on Jul 23, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Two to Tango, center (#2) in photo.

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Description 

Basicly 5.4 through out. Easy way to the top. Good beginner lead.

Location 

8-10 feet left of Black Hole into a slot or chimney of rock. On a west-facing, black-grey groove under two bolts. Rap to base.

Protection 

Two bolts, no other gear. Two bolt anchor at top.


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By Tanner Mitchell
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 4, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

A third bolt would really sew up this route - the runout from bolt 2 is about 1/3 or more of the route length, granted on easier climbng, but a slip up there on lead could be disastrous with the back wall being so close.
Also, make sure you have a bail biner for rapping off any of the routes on this wall. The angle of the anchors combined with the sharp rocks and lower angle of the top half of the rock caught my rope on every ascent of this wall.
By allen simons
Nov 8, 2008

Yeah, it is run out from the second bolt but given the grade it seemed reasonable. I never had a rope hang up issue on any of the four routes here. There was a bit of friction on thunderdome due to the low angle of the rock, but I consider myself the master of rope snagging and mine pulled fine. Allen