|842 page views|
A very good line, but not a great warm-up as it is a little pumpy for the grade. The crack does have some variety, but no less gets pretty pumpy and is considerably harder than the nearby climbs Even Ecstacy (9+), Mouse Meat (10+), or Tofu Crack (10-), which make better warm-ups.
Bloom suggests that TR'ing the finger crack left of this from the same anchor (Two Timer II, a 5.12-) is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding fun once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ and not high quality. Fat fingered people might like it better.
This climb is on the left side of the 2nd Meat Wall, just turned around a corner from the main face, left of Tofu Crack, which is left of Top Sirloin. It is the crack system in a HUGE, shaded, left-facing corner.
Rack of cams to 3", heavy on the 2-2.5".
Into the big flake. #5 BD work really well ...
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
I am not sure I would go heavy on the 2 2.5. You are going to need more 3" then 2" stuff. Also at lease one if 2 BD #5 comes in handy on the ow flake. The #4 tips out. This is what I would take if I do it again. 2 .75 BD, 3 #2 BD, 4 #3 BD, 1 #4 WC and 2 #5 BD. And I believe it take all of a 60m rope. 70 would be better.
|By Jay Brown|
Mar 19, 2010
i put the anchor on this route and posted it as "Smell the Meat .10" . just wondering why its on here as "two timer" ? ...and it is in the new book.
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
tony's description sounds correct, but dpurf's photos look like they are for smell the meat.
Apr 2, 2012
Agreed that the photos are wrong and the description is correct. Two Timer is an excellent LF corner with a little bit of loose rock down low and then enduro steep jamming through bulges. Dpurf's gear beta is not for Two Timer either.
|By J. Hickok|
Aug 23, 2012
Walk left from the "Mouse Meat" area of the wall to a large left facing very shady corner. This is Two Timer. Two Timer II is the obvious crack that goes splitter fingers high on the wall and shares anchors. The photo here is incorrect as of 8/23/2012, go left from the Mouse Meat/Tofu Crack area to find this route