Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Steve Quinlan, Tim Kudo 1992
Page Views: 2,584 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


83 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A very good line, but not a great warm-up as it is a little pumpy for the grade. The crack does have some variety, but no less gets pretty pumpy and is considerably harder than the nearby climbs Even Ecstacy (9+), Mouse Meat (10+), or Tofu Crack (10-), which make better warm-ups.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing the finger crack left of this from the same anchor (Two Timer II, a 5.12-) is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding fun once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ and not high quality. Fat fingered people might like it better.

Location Suggest change

This climb is on the left side of the 2nd Meat Wall, just turned around a corner from the main face, left of Tofu Crack, which is left of Top Sirloin. It is the crack system in a HUGE, shaded, left-facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Rack of cams to 3", heavy on the 2-2.5".

Photos

loading