|2nd Meat Wall
I'm giving it a star for two reasons:
1) Because if someone gave it a good brush down it might get one, and that would be easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor with Two Timer (10+) which is a good climb.
2) Because someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers might like it better.
But neither of those applied to me.
Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding "fun" once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ to me and not high quality.
"Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" have much nicer rock!
This is the awkward problem that leads to a strenuous finger crack to finish at the anchors of "Two Timer," just left of the corner. TR it after leading Two Timer.
Bloom refers to this as a TR and I can see why. The rock is fairly soft to feel good about small cams in it, the stances insecure due to bad, bad feet, and the climb i credibly pumpy and sustained. Perhaps one of these freak-of-nature strong climbers with the right sized fingers could lead it with a few of everything to 3" for the bottom and doubles .75-1.5" for the top half, but not me.
From: moab, ut
Jan 28, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
if you are going to put up two timer you might as well t.r. two timer II. it is better than the describer makes it seem. i dont have big fingers just average size and the splitter was a great finger size. the feet are a bit licheney. but the more people that climb it the cleaner it gets. it also has a really fun face climbing sequence just before the chains. and if you wanted to lead this the rock is only really soft at the bottom where the climb is .10 or .10+. dont be scared to at least try it....remember the t.r.
|By Ed L|
Apr 29, 2010
I agree. This is a great line. One of my favorite sections of splitter yellow alien/.4 BD anywhere. Just TR'd it and can't wait to lead it. I think the R part is the double crack down low where it may be hard to fish in the 2" piece and unsafe to place in the flake forming the hidden finger crack on the left wall. This one, along with Ninja Bedwetter, go in my personal 6 star section. Rough blue metolius crux into a fun face finish. What's not to love?
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 13, 2010
Like most, I've only toproped this line, and it was years ago. I definitely don't remember it being as bad as the description makes it out to be. Fun, hard fingers, and it felt right on at 12-.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 13, 2011
Went straight for the onsight lead...Didnt get it first try, but found the gear to be good the whole way, no reason for an R rating. Really fun pitch..Placing gear in the splitter is the crux.. No real stance for the whole top half, just plug and chug
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011
agreed that this line should be lead and does not deserve an R rating at all. maybe it cleaned up a lot since the original posts. take a good amount of .5 camalot size and a few green alien size (end) in addition to everything else. good climbing on splitter off fingers that taper to thin fingers by the end.