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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Two-Step Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, 1985
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 9, 2009

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Two-Step Arete, NRG, WV.

Description 

This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Traverse to the left side to the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!


Location 

If you locate Fantasy, this is the next arete about 80 yards upstream.


Protection 

Gear up to a #2 Camalot, mostly small nuts and small cams. The smaller the better, but no real need for brass or micro stoppers. Lower from slings around a tree at the top.



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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Apr 10, 2009

CONDITION REPORT 

Notice many wasps on this last weekend...near the roof on the top left of the arete...had to bail out right just to be careful...