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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Two-Step Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, 1985
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 9, 2009

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Two-Step Arete, NRG, WV.

Description 

This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Traverse to the left side to the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!

Location 

If you locate Fantasy, this is the next arete about 80 yards upstream.

Protection 

Gear up to a #2 Camalot, mostly small nuts and small cams. The smaller the better, but no real need for brass or micro stoppers. Lower from slings around a tree at the top.


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By Aaron Moses
From: Abingdon, Va
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I followed the directions above since I didn't bring my guidebook to the crag. At the roof I traversed about 6-8 ft left and pulled the roof. It was fun, juggy, exposed climbing, but after the roof the wall was covered in an inch thick layer of lichen(had to dig around for holds), and then the anchors were on the right side of the arete. This would be a fun variation with some cleaning, and it's own anchor. I believe the description should say to stay right of the arete at the top(this is what the book says to do). I give it a PG13 because I'm not sure the available gear would keep you off the deck if you fell before the 1st good horizontal.
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