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Shagg Crag
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Unsorted Routes:

Two Shaved Heads 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,541
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
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Charlotte Majerczyk making the 3rd clip on Two Sha...

Description 

Two Shaved Heads is located on the far right side of the cliff, past Meltdown, on a separated section of rock. The routes here are slightly less pumpy than those on the main part of the cliff, partly because they're shorter and partly because they're less steep.

Unlike many other routes at Shagg, Two Shaved Heads offers vertical, technical climbing. It is also much harder than it looks. After the steep, relatively easy start, the climbing becomes delicate and and culminates in some hard moves at the top. Expect to use your fingers more than your biceps on this one.


Protection 

5 bolts



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By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The two finger pocket on this route is probably the only one at shagg!

By JEC
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Aug 23, 2010

Ethan wanted to send this 12 while he was still 12!

By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Good to see that people still climb this route and it is still graded 5.12! (was 12b back in '96 when I sent it). Got it second try after got booted off It Ain't Pretty repeatedly. Definitely favors strong fingers over big biceps/shoulders :)

By Seth Cohen
Sep 15, 2013

How in the world do you use the two-finger pocket on this route? A friend and I were completely stymied by it, and ended up moving right after the good crimp at the fourth bolt, like in the video. Curious about other beta!