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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
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Lady Pillar 
Long Island Iced Ted 
Miller Genuine Draft 
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Season of the Worm, The 
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Two Scoops 
Unsorted Routes:

Two Scoops 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Fowler, 1995
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007
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Through the boulder problem and into the layback


New school style IC route with a bolt protecting crux entry moves. A difficult progression from powerful face/tips through second digit locks sets you up for a tight finger lieback/jam corner and a short pinch to the anchor.

Very cool I thought!


Bolt, (1-2).4, (2).5, (2).75, (3) 1 (Friends fit great), (1).75, (1).5 (inches referenced for cam sizes)


This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.

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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Oct 10, 2007

Where at the optimator is this route?

By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 23, 2007

This is on the same ledge system as the optimator. It has a plaque, but it is almost illegible.

By Scott Bennett
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.

By mountainsense
Apr 21, 2010

  • Historical Note: At the time of the first ascent, 00 TCUs did not exist to protect the initial moves, or the belayer.